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Finding xeno: a penis tale

Originally Posted by JackovDiamond
Hello xeno,

I half-think the pics are sufficient and half-think I’ll fuck it up. With almost all things unexplored they’re only simple when you’ve done them. As it is I’m quite weary of overfiling.

Would you do me a kindness and please measure how many millimetres the teeth are on your modified Hardcore?
In the attachment is a pic you uploaded but I’ve clearly indicated measurement points and colour coded the four teeth.

In addition, do the bottom teeth actually need to be filed since they flare so wide?

Sorry to have to bother you again. :)

JoD


You’re a good man Jack…thanks for the gentleness of your prodding :) . I just checked, and surprisingly I don’t have a millimeter scale at home, but I can bring one home from work; so yes, I’ll measure the color coded teeth in millimeters and report back. And yes, you are right; no filing of the bottom teeth is necessary.

Really, I’m very glad that you pursued this, and in particular, in the kind and considerate manner that you did; truth is, I’d kinda let this fall off of my radar, and I’m sure that there are others in addition to you that would appreciate and benefit from this information.

Back to you with teeth measurements soon.

xeno


originally: 6.5" BPEL x 5.0" EG (ms); currently: 9.375" BPEL x 6.75" EG (ms)

Hidden details: Finding xeno: a penis tale; Some photos: Tiger

Tell me, o monks; what cannot be achieved through efforts. - Siddhartha Gautama

Okeedokee, here you go:

Green: 26mm
Blue: 25mm
Red: 25mm
Yellow: 18mm

Note that measurements for Blue and Green were done from the top line datum and measurements for Red and Yellow were done from the middle line datum; the lowest line datum was not used.

A couple of additional points:

The front bottom bolt will need to be bent (as close to the left inside face of the BIB, when positioned relative to your body in the way that it would be used) in order to facilitate the front splayed geometry.

A nut is used against right inside face of the BIB to hold that front splayed geometry open.

The receiving channel for the top bolt will need to be dremeled somewhat in order to receive the top closure bolt with the new front splayed geometry; in essence what this means is the surface of the “long” tooth on the top right, the one that bounds the receiving channel on your body’s side, will need to be ground down along it’s outer (away from your body) face in order for the bolt to clear it when dropping into the receiving channel.

And oh yea, yes, the bottom teeth do need to be sanded down…at least the front (away from your body) edge of the right rear tooth, in order to allow tight closure at the rear of the BIB…I think that the bottom photo of my BIB shows this well. I also sanded down the front edge of the left rear and a little bit of the second from the right rear tooth. I recommend sanding down the top teeth and then sanding down the bottom teeth to allow tight closure at the top AND bottom…then you’re done.

I hope that this makes sense; please let me know if not.

And thank you for your patience and persistence Jack; two attributes that I much admire, and which portend very good gains for you :)

Best,

xeno


originally: 6.5" BPEL x 5.0" EG (ms); currently: 9.375" BPEL x 6.75" EG (ms)

Hidden details: Finding xeno: a penis tale; Some photos: Tiger

Tell me, o monks; what cannot be achieved through efforts. - Siddhartha Gautama

Originally Posted by BeardedDragon
Dragon trap, I like that.

I wasn’t thinking of its length benefit. Your post made me think of a setup like this (attachment).

I sliced the bottom of foot on broken glass last month, and read about the classical IPR model of wound healing. Then last night I read through this thread again, and I think I’m finally understanding the similarities between IPR and PE. There are a lot of differences too, but there are enough similarities that I’ve been converted to believe that some microcosmic version of IPR is happening with the tissue formation in PE. That is, collagenous tissues are being “broken” or “wounded” and new collagen is being laid down to fill the gap, and once that new collagen has had enough time to integrate itself into the existing structures (tunica, ligs), and re-strengthen itself, then we’re free to “wound” it again and start the process over. The fact that you’ve continued to gain an extra 7 or 10 cubic inches or whatever since you started it, all while doing a grand total of about 10 hours of “I” phase active PE every 3 months (am I estimating that correctly?) has certainly got my attention. Very time and effort efficient. It seems like the keys are 1. doing enough damage to cause gains during the I phase (i.e. overcoming the force thresh-holds necessary to “break” the collagenous tissues, despite just coming off a long rest) 2. taking enough rest despite our PE nature of always wanting to “do” more, and 3. finding the right time frames for micro- and macro- phases. Since there’s so much overlap between the phases, if I can get 1. and 2. down, gains should come, and 3. is more about optimizing gains and time+effort efficiency.

I’ll be experimenting. As always, thanks for going first.

Wouldn’t that imply that 100% erect jelqs are more efficient than flaccid jelqs because of more collagenous tissues being broken with the former technique?

Xenolith, first of all sorry for the very late reply and thanks for your post, I’ve now began to read about the TT.
I’ve noticed tons of other threads like the HTW and the Strain ellipse mechanics adjacent to clamps, the amount of infos you’ve posted is impressive.

The dry jelqs I was doing caused me pain so I had to stop, I was fine after a couple of days but I had other issues and a broken laptop, so here I am starting again, been doing jelqs with olive oil and a proper warm up for about 14 days now. The EG has seen some little gains but this are the gains I usually get when I start every new routine after a long break only this time they seem to stay even after a couple of days of rest.

Originally Posted by xenolith
Yes, I agree, the standard BIB does not lend itself well to the kind of modification that allows for dorsal compression only. I’m sure it’s possible, but one would need to cut the BIB standard very significantly in order to generate the kind of geometry that would make dorsal only compression possible.
Having bought a BIB standard already, I know it’s hard to contemplate buying a different BIB hanger, but if you are interested in pursuing hanging, I really think that either the BIB Starter or the BIB Hardcore is the best product available, particularly when modified for dorsal only compression…just my opinion.

cheers, I wouldn’t mind buying a bib hardcore if this can give me even the slightest result in the long term. Aside from being on a budget at the moment I’d be more concerned about me doing a mess in trying to modify it as I’m useless at these things.

I’ll keep reading all the past posts, at least you are giving me some hope, I’m sure I can gain something with your ideas and suggestions, anything between 0.5 and 0.8 inches would be a massive success and moral boost, doesn’t matter if it takes a year or two.

Are you an engineer by any chance? Just curious 😀

Originally Posted by lucarello
Are you an engineer by any chance?


Is it that obvious?

After 10 years of practicing PE, the deepest insight that I have is this: 1: strain tissues beyond that which your normal erection does; 2: use an ADS that achieves near FSL and/or EG for as much time after strain as possible (I don’t think there’s anything better for this than the CC+HTW…could be biased, but I don’t think so); 3: rest, rest, rest…during rest is when real growth (due to collagen speciation, fibroblast conversion and hyperplasia) happens. Of these, numbers 1 and 3 are the most important; 1 can be hard to achieve, 3 should be easy, but many fight it, making it hard to gain.

The TT is good for controlling strain…makes those fibroblasts and Type III collagen, then just chill…let Type I collagen speciation and hyperplasia happen…these are the mechanisms of growth.

Anyhoo, oodles of blahbedee blah in this thread on IPR hypothesis; basically it posits that as long as one strains tissues beyond their normal range of motion, then holds them at or near that for as much time as possible for ~2 -3 weeks, then rests for 3-4 months, then the body’s natural adaptation to strain will take place, resulting in a longer tissue profile in the direction of strain.

But you’ve got to rest the strained tissues for the mechanism to work.

Good luck luca; let me know if I can help.

xeno


originally: 6.5" BPEL x 5.0" EG (ms); currently: 9.375" BPEL x 6.75" EG (ms)

Hidden details: Finding xeno: a penis tale; Some photos: Tiger

Tell me, o monks; what cannot be achieved through efforts. - Siddhartha Gautama

Yes, but you could have been a physicist as well 😀

Have you wrote a sort of tutorial on how to build a TT? Does one has to enter it erect or in a stretched flaccid state and how long for?

Why do you think flaccid jelq is reccomended over erect jelq if erect jelqing strains tissues more?

Originally Posted by xenolith
Okeedokee, here you go:

Green: 26mm
Blue: 25mm
Red: 25mm
Yellow: 18mm

Note that measurements for Blue and Green were done from the top line datum and measurements for Red and Yellow were done from the middle line datum; the lowest line datum was not used.

A couple of additional points:

The front bottom bolt will need to be bent (as close to the left inside face of the BIB, when positioned relative to your body in the way that it would be used) in order to facilitate the front splayed geometry.

A nut is used against right inside face of the BIB to hold that front splayed geometry open.

The receiving channel for the top bolt will need to be dremeled somewhat in order to receive the top closure bolt with the new front splayed geometry; in essence what this means is the surface of the “long” tooth on the top right, the one that bounds the receiving channel on your body’s side, will need to be ground down along it’s outer (away from your body) face in order for the bolt to clear it when dropping into the receiving channel.

And oh yea, yes, the bottom teeth do need to be sanded down…at least the front (away from your body) edge of the right rear tooth, in order to allow tight closure at the rear of the BIB…I think that the bottom photo of my BIB shows this well. I also sanded down the front edge of the left rear and a little bit of the second from the right rear tooth. I recommend sanding down the top teeth and then sanding down the bottom teeth to allow tight closure at the top AND bottom…then you’re done.

I hope that this makes sense; please let me know if not.

And thank you for your patience and persistence Jack; two attributes that I much admire, and which portend very good gains for you :)

Best,

xeno

Hello xeno,

Thanks for your reply :)

Think there was a wee misinterpretation in recording tooth measurements.

Using my colour coded pic, on the factory BIB Hardcore I have in front of me the teeth measure as follows:
Green: 16mm
Red: 16mm
Blue: 14 1/2 mm
Yellow: 14 mm

I zoomed in on the colour coded pic till it was approximately the same length & width of the Hardcore in my hand and measured the teeth.
These inexact measurements were as follows:

Green: 13 1/2mm
Red: 13 1/2mm
Blue: 11mm
Yellow: 8mm

No need to measure them again, just would be useful to know if you remember filing down the yellow tooth markedly moreso than the others?
As a side note, there seems to be a graduation there which is in keeping with the splayed geometry you’ve promoted. It would make sense the yellow tooth would be filed the most, then the blue, and so on.
Your added input about filing the receiving channel of the top closure bolt is understood, as is the bending of the front bottom bolt.

I’d like to ask a few extra questions if it’s not too much bother…

Conventional compression hanging relies on forming shoulders from the internal structures, I would guess this is redundant with the / \ configuration. Do you experience the hanger riding forward at all or is it a case of once the top bolt is bolted tight it doesn’t budge?

Dovetailing from the above, and dependent on your reply, where is the attachment point for you: Base, midshaft, inch behind head, etc?

Lastly, what type of glue did you use for the pilates stretch band?

I bought some needle files and will get on this over the weekend.

Thanks again for your assistance.

JoD

Originally Posted by JackovDiamond
Think there was a wee misinterpretation in recording tooth measurements.


Whooopsy; yep, that was the 50th scale…multiply each number I gave you by 0.508 (that’s 25.4/50) to get the dimensions in mm.; here they are:

Green: 13.2mm
Red: 12.7mm
Blue: 12.7mm
Yellow: 9.1mm

Originally Posted by JackovDiamond
Using my colour coded pic, on the factory BIB Hardcore I have in front of me the teeth measure as follows:
Green: 16mm
Red: 16mm
Blue: 14 1/2 mm
Yellow: 14 mm


That looks about right to me.

Originally Posted by JackovDiamond
I zoomed in on the colour coded pic till it was approximately the same length & width of the Hardcore in my hand and measured the teeth.
These inexact measurements were as follows:

Green: 13 1/2mm
Red: 13 1/2mm
Blue: 11mm
Yellow: 8mm

That’s pretty close to the values that I got when converting to mm above; I’d shoot for the values that I got as they were measured at even finer scale than mm…by about a factor of two, but really, you’ll know when you’re getting it right because closure at the splayed configuration requires the particular set of teeth modifications that it does…it tells you how they need to be filed.

Originally Posted by JackovDiamond
It would make sense the yellow tooth would be filed the most, then the blue, and so on.


Yes, that’s exactly right.

Originally Posted by JackovDiamond
Do you experience the hanger riding forward at all or is it a case of once the top bolt is bolted tight it doesn’t budge?


Doesn’t budge.

Originally Posted by JackovDiamond
Dovetailing from the above, and dependent on your reply, where is the attachment point for you: Base, midshaft, inch behind head, etc?


I attach my hanger at the base; I’ve tried midshaft and behind glans, particularly when experimenting with fulcrum hanging…which I didn’t like and no longer do, so yep attached at the base.

Originally Posted by JackovDiamond
Lastly, what type of glue did you use for the pilates stretch band?


Gorilla Super Glue.

Originally Posted by JackovDiamond
I bought some needle files and will get on this over the weekend.

Thanks again for your assistance.

Happy to help Jack; hope that my screwy original numbers didn’t mess you up…seems like you were able to tell they were screwy, I’m glad of that.

Please share with the Forum what your experience with the splayed BIB is when you can.

Cheers!

xeno


originally: 6.5" BPEL x 5.0" EG (ms); currently: 9.375" BPEL x 6.75" EG (ms)

Hidden details: Finding xeno: a penis tale; Some photos: Tiger

Tell me, o monks; what cannot be achieved through efforts. - Siddhartha Gautama

Originally Posted by lucarello
Have you wrote a sort of tutorial on how to build a TT?


No I haven’t luca. I guess I could, but it’s silly easy, two boards, some corner molding, four sets of bolts, nuts, washers and wingnuts.

Originally Posted by lucarello
Does one has to enter it erect or in a stretched flaccid state and how long for?


I use it on my erect penis; the idea is to deform the already stretched to “normal” maximum (i.e. erect) tunica matrix into an “abnormal” :) http://www.youtube.com/watch?featur…H97lImrr0Q#t=76 maximum :) .

Originally Posted by lucarello
Why do you think flaccid jelq is reccomended over erect jelq if erect jelqing strains tissues more?


Great question!!! I think the answer is that there is only so much force that the human hand can deliver, and as a penis reaches a state of erection, the tunica reaches a sufficiently high state of rigidity that the force required to cause deformation of it simply exceeds that which the human hand can deliver. This is precisely the limiting factor that the TT seeks to facilitate exceedance of.

I hope that you build a TT and let us know what you think of it.

Ciao!

xeno


originally: 6.5" BPEL x 5.0" EG (ms); currently: 9.375" BPEL x 6.75" EG (ms)

Hidden details: Finding xeno: a penis tale; Some photos: Tiger

Tell me, o monks; what cannot be achieved through efforts. - Siddhartha Gautama

Hello xeno,

Did the modifications the other day there, but couldn’t pick up any Gorilla glue local so will have to wait for an online order.
Bending the front bottom bolt was a pain in the arse. Got it done without threading it though.
It all took way longer than predicted, as things tend to do.

I would kindly like to ask you about the Well on your modified Hardcore.
Regretfully I don’t own a fancy camera nor a mobile phone with a built-in camera, consequently I had to borrow someone elses pic of a factory Hardcore.
In the attached pic you’ll note two dots I’ve marked at the top of the well and two at the bottom. If it isn’t too much bother could you please tighten your hardcore to max(without your dick in it no less) and measure the distance between the dots for the top and bottom of the well? I am aware yours clearly has the stretch band adhered, hence you can factor that in or out. It’s pretty thin and insignificant really.

Secondly, first impressions had me thinking that the black cable tie you use doesn’t do much for overall stability of the splayed geometry, or in other words, it isn’t vital. The bent front bottom bolt sure keeps it sturdy enough all by itself. Does this sound about right?

I imagine these sound like nonessential questions, and maybe they are, but due to your success with the splayed geometry I need to replicate it exactly, to know, that should it not work for me, it isn’t because I missed a beat or made a miscue; it’ll be something in the unique anatomy of my dick.

Thank you for your continued help.

JoD

Attached Images

Originally Posted by JackovDiamond
Hello xeno,

Did the modifications the other day there, but couldn’t pick up any Gorilla glue local so will have to wait for an online order.
Bending the front bottom bolt was a pain in the arse. Got it done without threading it though.
It all took way longer than predicted, as things tend to do.

I would kindly like to ask you about the Well on your modified Hardcore.
Regretfully I don’t own a fancy camera nor a mobile phone with a built-in camera, consequently I had to borrow someone elses pic of a factory Hardcore.
In the attached pic you’ll note two dots I’ve marked at the top of the well and two at the bottom. If it isn’t too much bother could you please tighten your hardcore to max(without your dick in it no less) and measure the distance between the dots for the top and bottom of the well? I am aware yours clearly has the stretch band adhered, hence you can factor that in or out. It’s pretty thin and insignificant really.

Secondly, first impressions had me thinking that the black cable tie you use doesn’t do much for overall stability of the splayed geometry, or in other words, it isn’t vital. The bent front bottom bolt sure keeps it sturdy enough all by itself. Does this sound about right?

I imagine these sound like nonessential questions, and maybe they are, but due to your success with the splayed geometry I need to replicate it exactly, to know, that should it not work for me, it isn’t because I missed a beat or made a miscue; it’ll be something in the unique anatomy of my dick.

Thank you for your continued help.

JoD


Hi Jack,

No, they’re good questions.

Top: 10mm
Bottom: 20mm; note that the left bottom dot is located further to the rear than the right rear dot due to the latter being located on the tip of an interlocking rib of the BIB. Left dot to same location at right rear is 25mm.

Right, cable tie doesn’t do much…just keeps the BIB from wobbling around too much when putting it on.

Happy to help.

Cheers!

xeno


originally: 6.5" BPEL x 5.0" EG (ms); currently: 9.375" BPEL x 6.75" EG (ms)

Hidden details: Finding xeno: a penis tale; Some photos: Tiger

Tell me, o monks; what cannot be achieved through efforts. - Siddhartha Gautama

Hoping that this photo will be helpful to you Jack.

xeno

Attached Images
BIB 004.jpg
(197.3 KB, 195 views)

originally: 6.5" BPEL x 5.0" EG (ms); currently: 9.375" BPEL x 6.75" EG (ms)

Hidden details: Finding xeno: a penis tale; Some photos: Tiger

Tell me, o monks; what cannot be achieved through efforts. - Siddhartha Gautama

Hello xeno,

Thank you for the Well measurements and the pic. Both were indeed helpful.

The filing I had done matched your Well by fractions of a mm give or take.

Still waiting on that Gorilla glue, so won’t make any extra alterations until I’ve got the stretch band stuck firm and can give it a test run.
Once its on my dick and I get a feel of it I should be able to determine what fine-tuning is required.
I’m already thinking I’ll bend the top closure bolt a tad and file the teeth a further mm or two.

Thanks again for your assistance, and I will be sure to report back my experiences, good or bad.

JoD

Xeno, your gains are very encouraging. If I may ask, since you stated initially,

…”My initial routine consisted of stretching and jelqing in the hot tub every morning. I started at something like 200 jelqs per day and gradually moved that to about 500 per day. My stretching was done for about 15 minutes prior to jumping into the hot tub. I later added Horse 440s. I experimented with homemade hangers, stretchers and golf weights, all of which I used to varying degrees…”

What was the stretching method you used?

Originally Posted by Ectospasm
What was the stretching method you used?


Luka’s Dog Pissing Stretch: I think I just invented a new, extreme stretch. I call it the LDP Stretch

Basically one foot up on a table and stretching away from that foot; makes a great position for jelqing too. Still use both of these and hot tub jelqs in each gains campaign; it’s just the heavy duty I-phase stuff that changes.

Good Luck Ecto!

xeno


originally: 6.5" BPEL x 5.0" EG (ms); currently: 9.375" BPEL x 6.75" EG (ms)

Hidden details: Finding xeno: a penis tale; Some photos: Tiger

Tell me, o monks; what cannot be achieved through efforts. - Siddhartha Gautama

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