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Interesting! Are you a shop teacher or just get all “A”s in shop class? What about sharp edges of the metal? The cold metal too? Won’t that shrink the member?

Interesting - are you one of those people who doesn’t read instructions? :)

The pipe is PVC - very pleasant on the skin, though I always use a wrap now. I didn’t have time to do the whole set of instructions over that are on the AFB page. Probably will make this the main hanger now, but I wanted to get the new design up!

No. I’m not a shop teacher…just an inventive creative sort.

Nope, you got me I really did not read the instructions. I saw the diagram of the link to your site and just assumed it was metal cause of the wingnut part. Is PVC really that safe? Everyday you hear this is cancer causing or that. Those studies are even contradicting each other. I really don’t know myself. Is it possible to get a burr or “pimple” in the pvc pipe surface and have to fix it? I assume sandpaper it down or such and then the wrapping would protect you well enough.

Sorry to be a pain but I was never good at building stuff let alone thinking things up. I bet you keep Home Depot in business with all these ideas. You must have an awesome spacial visualization ability in like IQ tests!

Tom, have you ever thought up any “inventions” but just could not get it to work? perhaps you should post the purpose and your data and prints and some of the other guy’s could help correct it.

I must admit you are a wellspring of ideas for the PE community.

Anyhow, Thanks for answering my questions! TT


Been meaning to ask you …

I built version 1 and had a hell of a time getting the pvc as flat as you show it and decided you just drew it that way. I used white schedule 40 pvc, 1/2”, boiled it 30 minutes, put it between two 2x4s and stood on it and couldn’t get it to flatten by more than 50%. Reheating it didn’t help because it went back to its original size.
What exactly did you use?


If the white pipe says “hot or cold”…well, go figure. Some types are hard to boil and shape. I think Tom uses the electrical kind. If you want to use the white, hold it over a candle or small alchohol lamp and gradully shape it. Do it in a well ventilated area to avoid breathing the fumes. Let the heat above the flame heat up the pipe. Do not touch the pipe to the actual flame and burn the pipe. In essence, treat it like really tough shrink tubing when applying heat-gradual and even.


“Interesting - are you one of those people who doesn’t read instructions? ”

In this world filled with tons of information helping my dick grow, just thought I’d let you know I find your mild sarcasm hilarious and refreshing.

"The world is a one way mirror. What they see, is what you see. What do you want people to see?" Women. If you're going to swing...swing for the fucking fences. "The reasonable man insists on adapting to the world. The unreasonable man persists on having the world adapt to him. Therefore, all progress in the world is made by the unreasonable man." "Success is not a surprise."


Originally posted by bigblackstick
“Interesting - are you one of those people who doesn’t read instructions? ”

In this world filled with tons of information helping my dick grow, just thought I’d let you know I find your mild sarcasm hilarious and refreshing.

I appreciate that - but don’t forget the smiley I added…

Tex3: groa answered it - not only is the grey electrical conduit easier to soften, it’s cheaper than water pipe. (I don’t recommend open flame stuff). The question is, do you really need to flatten the pipe at all, and the answer is no. I prefer the greater contact area, shorter screws and overall smaller size, but this design originally used unflattened pipe. Try it with what you’ve got and see if it works for you.

Twat: enjoyed your post. I mentioned that PVC is pleasant on the skin, but now that I’ve discovered (invented?) the two-layer wrap, I never use it that way. What’s in contact with my skin is cotton. (You can probably find a study that says THAT’S dangerous, but hey :) )

As I was writing this I did a test of the AFBv2: as you (may) know, this is still a secret thing for me. Heard my wife coming down the hall, quickly unhooked the weights and tucked my attached unit up the leg of my shorts, where it was nicely inconspicuous. She stepped out of the room for a minute, and I was able to simply reach up the leg of my shorts, and SNAP it was off. Try THAT with a Bib! (No offense, Bigger…I am a more loyal member of your fan club than you even imagine. You’re the only reason I’m back into this and having so much fun with it!)

So why don’t I document all my failures and unsolved problems? 1) because I’ve come up with something that works pretty damn well, and 2) it took Thomas Edison 20,000 attempts to make an electric light bulb that worked, which is fascinating and interesting but who really wants to know about the other 19,999 experiments?

I’d like to get rid of the screw and wingnut…anyone know of a better adjustment option? (Velcro doesn’t work well, and it’s too noisy to take off :) )

And no, this cheap bastard’s PE R&D doesn’t do a whole lot to boost Home Depot’s bottom line. One piece of 89-cent conduit was enough for every AFB design experiment I’ve done so far, though the next brainstorm will require further supplies. I’m saving my pocket change.

tee hee

Yeah OK here’s another one for you: each contact side of the AFB has two pieces of latex tubing glued lengthwise side by side, with a piece of rubber from a bicycle innertube stretched over (to keep sking from pinching between the tubes) and taped. But what’s the point? Just wrap….

I, like many, can appreciate the beauty of simplicity, and your improvements on AFBv2, combined with Bigger’s Bib, give all of us a lot of choice in effective hanging. Thanks!

As for your fastener question: if you aren’t too concerned with cost, you could look into a Dzus or Camlock fastener (as found on aircraft and race cars/motorcycles). There are plenty of hits on Google, here are some good starter sites:



Originally posted by Jabari
if you aren’t too concerned with cost

I appreciate the info. Didn’t see anything that cought my eye. And me, not too concerned with cost?


you COULD go with the stretchy cord idear. Specifically (or vague) take a latex tubing or cord to replace the screw and wingut. If one end is attached and the cord has small overhand (stop)knots in it at the right places, the tubing will slide into the slot and provide closure tension. The only thing I don’t like about that personally is that it violates the potential energy rule. If the knot jumps out and the tubing recoils, it all happens in very close proximity to the cock. Ouch followed by many other words. If one is interested, slingshot tubing or the theraband made tubing might work. Not alot of area to tie knots in, though and one would have to fuck around with it alot to get the proper length of tubing for specific tensions for weights to be used. Really, you only need one knot and just stretch the tude into the slot.

Well, it’s clear to me that the AFBv2 is one of the only ways to go now that the BibHanger is astapasta..


OTOH, wow! It’s sooo much cheaper to purchase/construct!

Thanks so much, Tom!

Re: Well...

Originally posted by groa
you COULD go with the stretchy cord idear. Specifically (or vague) take a latex tubing or cord to replace the screw and wingut.

Nice - could also just be string with knots, thought it would take a while to calibrate it, and wouldn’t be real easily adjustable…man, then the thing would really fit inconspicuously in your pocket! I’ll play with it one of these days….

Another way would be to modify the tension end of the AFB to accept faucet washers or rubber “O” rings, a tension ring to keep hanger closed. The ends might have to be tapered with a holding notch as well as a groove to allow fast grab and removal of the “O” ring. I’m not sure on the durability of these items when strectched under tension for a long time, as they weren’t really designed for that. Possible to loop two together, one being the tension ring while the other serves as an easy to grab “on/off” handle. They do come in various sizes/packs. If I ever have the time to hang again in the future, I just might have to try some of these variations. groa Edit: Come to think of it, on the string idea one may not even need to knot for calibration. A few beads of the right size from a craft store could be slid on the string and moved over to the outer side of the notch for greater tension. Abacus style, if you get the drift and it’s spelled right. Beads would be easier to grab with the fingers, too. Just need to get tough beads, some of the “fuax wood” varieties that I used for my PC counter string break easily as they are designed for necklaces.


Great minds think alike - though I thought beads would be too big, and was thinking along the lines of washers with small center holes, which is how I rigged up mine today. You could add as many washers as needed. Since I use the same wrap (and the same penis) each time, it doesn’t need to be real adjustable.

But I like that bead idea. Will play with it smore.

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