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Shivers Vacuum Hanger


Essentialy you have created a homemade device similar to “The Grip.” I used the grip for a couple of months and gained from it - the max weight I applied was around 10lbs, mostly BTC. I would have liked to go higher in weight, but found the grip was unable to hold a good vacuum seal above 10lbs - at least for a suitable length of time.

I like the idea of stretching from the head, as opposed to clamping onto the shaft and stretching from there, but, perhaps influenced by my experience with the grip, I don’t think a vacuum device is the way to go. I had an edema reaction on my glans, and still have a small spot of discoloration at that location, further the circulation to the glans was compromised at higher weights. Despite these issues, I thought the device was serviceable, just not clearly better than a clamping technique in regards to penis health and safety. The nail in the coffin for the grip was that the malleable portions wore out fairly quickly - rendering the device unusable. Hopefully, you have overcome some of the limitations I found in the grip.

Hey Shiver,

If you are using Windows XP then you need to go to the device manager and right click on all of your USB controllers and then click on the “update drivers” item on the alternate menu. Let the system find the drivers automatically and your USB ports will work again. The service packs update the USB drivers but you need to force them in.

I don’t mean to hijack your thread just trying to help here….

The ravings of a madman...

What sort of vacuum valve are you referring to? And how do you create the vacuum? And how long does the seal last? That looks pretty neat.

-Still bitter the y2k bug was a dud.

-My dear boy, do you ask a fish how it swims? (No.) Or a bird how it flies? (No.) Of course not. They do it because they were born to do it...

Originally Posted by Shiver
How to Make

The diagram you see was the result of several molds, but also several modifications with liquid silicone painted on to make small changes, areas drilled and reamed, extra blocks added to make areas tougher etc so there is no hard and fast rule. The first process went something like this:

1. Use a dental alginate to mold the glans and about 1” of shaft behind it.
2. Fill the alginate mold with liquid plaster to form the plug.
3. Cut the top off a supplements bottle. and fix the plaster cast in the centre, then flood with silicone and the appropriate accelerator.
4 Remove the plug and clean up the silicone.

That will get the basic body. From there I added the collar (a cross section of a donut shape made from two different sized plastic tubes. I also added the block that forms section ‘C’ in order to provide a body to take the loading, and also to make it deep enough to fit the valve. All these parts were stuck together with more of the same silicone. It generally takes around 24 hours for the silicone to cure, so a multistage job like this could take 3 or 4 days before it’s ready to try. As soon you try it you’ll probably want to tweak it, as you get a feel for what’s going on.

It took me a fair while to get to something I’m happy with, but now I can install it in about 30 seconds, and remove it in about 2.

A very interesting and promising idea Shriver. I think I grasp the basics on how to construct one of these, but maybe refining your instructions would help eliminate a ton of guess work. Pictures would certainly help but I think solid detail is missing at each step.

Can you tighten up these instructions for us dumb guys?

Good stuff Shriver.

where do you get the valve and pump?

Originally Posted by taz12313
where do you get the valve and pump?

He is on vacation everyone, he will be back soon.

By the way, welcome to the forum taz.

I’m on Win2K on a very old pc. It was originally a Win98 box if that gives you any idea. It’s been upgraded and bolted to for several years. I think if I went for XP it would probably cripple it. It’s just one more reason to get a new box but I’ve been putting it off for so long now.

I deliberately kept the instructions vague in order to only convey the idea and some process rather than the specifics. The diagram shows the intended shape with some relevant diameters, but everything else is variable. Basically it’s just a silicone top hat with a reduced collar and a valve in the end. I’m pretty sure if anybody made one then as soon as they tried it on they’d find things that need to change. Rather than recasting it every time I ended up using silicone with a paintbrush to thicken up areas or reduce diameters. It is quite a viscous liquid before it sets, so you can make changes to shape quite easily.

I used supplements bottles as containers as they were approximately the right size without wasting too much materials. I molded the head of my unit, then dunked it into a mix of silicone, but I no longer think this is necessary or even appropriate. For the record I drilled a hole in the bottom of the container and screwed in a thin bolt which acted as a prong to hold the plaster head casting in place away from the bottom of the container.

If I were to start again I would make it in 3 sections (A, B and C), then paint on silicone to the surfaces to glue it all together. I’d make the molds with a mix of plastic bottles, toilet rolls, selotape or anything else I could find lying around, but specifics I feel would be over complicating what is a very simple shape.

The valve is the ‘female in-line coupler’ on this site :
If the seal is good then the vacuum will last for as long as I have tried it (a couple of hours). The vacuum doesn’t have to be high which means it can be left on for a long time, but it also means that moving around or pulling it at odd angles will probably allow air ingress. It’s far from perfect, but with practise you can get a fair weight on with tiny amounts of vacuum. I usually add a little more vacuum just so that if I move it and some air gets in I don’t lose the seal. I use it dry btw and wash it to remove any oil etc, but its not that fussy for attended operation.

The female coupler ($13.25) in the link above is what is placed on the silicone head. The male coupler on the same page ($8.25)
is what is on the end of the pump tube. The pump being the pump I got with a standard vacuum cylinder pump. If you already have a cylinder then the pump will work fine. If not then I guess any of the recommendations in the hangers forum would be fine. It doesn’t have to be an elaborate model.

Want to make me one and i’ll buy it off you ? :) I work 60+ hours and trying to finish up a car project, I love the idea and always wanted to do something like this but you beat me to it :) , if you have spare time to gather the acc. and build it ready for use I’ll be your first customer, and I can also give you feedback and whatever else you would to help sell the item. please let me know. I know shipping charges from UK are gonna kill me though… doh!

My email is , please if you are interested in doing this email me your info/price/wait time.

Thanks again.

It’s tough to make for someone else as the fitting is a very individual thing. The original one I made was from an accurate plaster cast copy of my own penis, and even that one had several evolutions to get to something usable, and it still requires a certain application technique that resulted from much trial and error.

If you tried one on you would instantly know what I mean, but to describe it when you can’t see it is difficult. Other reasons are lack of spare materials, and that it took a few days to make (I’m self employed so money fairly directly translates to time, and I’m expensive :) ).

If there is anything I can do to help if you want to build one then I’m more than happy to assist, but for me to take it on would not provide you with the product you want. It’s a bespoke job :)


I’ve been very interested in this design since I finally understood that it’s not the vacuum force that keeps the hanger from falling off—it’s the glans enlargement.

I’m going to try to build a crude mock-up out of an LA Pump and a wood block. The wood block will form the “A” piece of your setup. It will have a central hole cut to the right size and shape (and sanded down!). The wood block will press against the flange of my cylinder (the “B” part), probably via a washer or o-ring. I’ll figure out how to attach the weight later. For now, I’ll just push on the wood block.

Even though the idea of using a full-sized cylinder sounds kind of silly, I have the unit handy and really like that I’ll be able to monitor the pressure. I also like the fact that the substantial volume of the cylinder will make the vacuum pressure less sensitive to movements and little adjustments.

Once I get the thing figured out, I’ll work on making it more elegant, assuming I can get it to work for me.

Shiver, what is the maximum weight you were able to hang with this unit?

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