Shivers Vacuum Hanger
While I have a little more time on my hands I thought I’d document my experiments with making a vacuum hanging device. The original idea was to have an overnight hanger, and while I never developed it to the point where it would do that, I did in the process discover a method of hanging reasonably high weights for long periods of time without any blood restriction, and while getting a stretch on the entire shaft. I’ve never used a bib, wench, chicken choker or any of the other popular hangers so I can’t give comparisons from experience unfortunately. If it inspires someone to try this out and it gets them gains, then I’m happy enough. I do believe this could be developed into a marketable product for anyone interested, as it is cheap to produce and very comfortable.
I only used this for about 2 weeks before other events in my life meant that I could no longer dedicate the time to it, and although things in home life have improved somewhat, I’m now interested in new and uncharted waters. I do use this device still for keeping the unit stretched while heating, but only with a very small weight. My current routine does not involve hanging in any way.
For technical reasons I can’t get my camera to talk to this archaic computer any more without a rebuild, so instead I’ve drawn a little pic to help explain how it looks.
The device is made from transparent silicone rubber. It has a standard vacuum pump valve in the end. In the picture you can see the collar (marked ‘A’) which is meant to sit behind the glans. The inner diameter needs to be of a size that will allow the flaccid penis to circulate blood freely while still being snug. It took me several molds to get this size right, and each time making it smaller. The main body ‘B’ is where the penis head resides. Section ‘C’ is solid except for the vacuum hole through the centre. This is the area that the force is pulled from. In this version a leash was siliconed into it at casting time, but a thin nut and bolt could go through this instead if made sturdy enough.
The wall thickness of the main body ‘B’ was experimented with in a few versions. I settled with 3mm as this was thick enough to withstand heavy weights, but thin enough to collapse in if the vacuum is too great. Originally the inside of section ‘B’ was the exact mold of the erect glans, but this proved to be very difficult to apply in the exact correct place every time. Eventually I oversized it and relied on the collar ‘A’ for vacuum integrity. An unexpected benefit of having a larger chamber and thin walls is that you can over vacuum the chamber (much higher than regular vacuum levels on the penis body btw) and the walls will start to collapse in. This has the benefit of limiting the vacuum applied to the tissues. If a small amount of air ingress occurs over time, this will act as a ballast to keep the vacuum constant, which means no adjustments during session.
The main trouble spot was getting the ‘A’ collar size right, and being uncircumcised I found that with the foreskin completely retracted, the current dimensions were too large to maintain the vacuum. I did not want the foreskin inside the chamber, so settled on the foreskin plugging the gap behind the collar. If I were to make another would make the inner diameter a few mm smaller still to make up for the lack of foreskin girth. I expect anyone who is circumcised will not have this issue.
To put the unit on, the collar ‘A’ can be stretched inside out over section ‘B’ where it will stay in place. Place the glans to the entrance and ‘flip’ the collar back over. It does this with some force and may make you flinch, but because it is sized properly it will not hit the skin hard, and it is more of a very slight tap. You then create the vacuum and remove the pump. I hang this from a hook under the table but I guess you could experiment with that.
I have hung for progressively up to 1.5 hours per session at 9.35lb, and up to 5 1/2 hours per day without incident. With lower vacuum I could hang up to about 4lb with just 2-2.5hg, though at this low vacuum you have to be careful not to move about too much or it will just slip off.
How to Make
The diagram you see was the result of several molds, but also several modifications with liquid silicone painted on to make small changes, areas drilled and reamed, extra blocks added to make areas tougher etc so there is no hard and fast rule. The first process went something like this:
1. Use a dental alginate to mold the glans and about 1” of shaft behind it.
2. Fill the alginate mold with liquid plaster to form the plug.
3. Cut the top off a supplements bottle. and fix the plaster cast in the centre, then flood with silicone and the appropriate accelerator.
4 Remove the plug and clean up the silicone.
That will get the basic body. From there I added the collar (a cross section of a donut shape made from two different sized plastic tubes. I also added the block that forms section ‘C’ in order to provide a body to take the loading, and also to make it deep enough to fit the valve. All these parts were stuck together with more of the same silicone. It generally takes around 24 hours for the silicone to cure, so a multistage job like this could take 3 or 4 days before it’s ready to try. As soon you try it you’ll probably want to tweak it, as you get a feel for what’s going on.
It took me a fair while to get to something I’m happy with, but now I can install it in about 30 seconds, and remove it in about 2.
Happy new year, and Enjoy!
Last edited by Shiver : 01-01-2005 at .