Thunder's Place

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AFB3 - say goodbye to PVC!!!


Hey Buster,

Maybe you just caught TH on a bad day. He has always been very cordial in responding to my postings. In any case, I probably wouldn’t use the beads if I went the ruler route. I would still use the wingnut. It does exactly what you stated - provides fine tensioning. The convex grooved that I sanded into the hanger are proving to work very well. I had two very comfortable 20 min hangs today. I would recommend using the conduit for the AFB2 hanger. As I mentioned before, you should make one of the sides about 1/8 in. longer to accomodate the wingnut. Also, make the hole on the other side where the screw goes through a little large to allow the screw some side to side movement - this makes it easier to move the screw into the groove on the other side.

Happy hanging


Jelktoid :trash: More meat for the money!


Did you say you were going to post a pic of that? I am really interested in this groove you’re using..

Try them both - why not?


Point is (in my mind anyway) that it’s not a big deal - bag of beads costs a buck, bolt and wing nut probably less, and they can be interchanged. So try both! For two bucks, you’re still miles ahead of anything you can buy pre-made.

I’ll be interested in your experience with the beads - the string does stretch and it’s a little more finicky to get right at first, but a marvel of simplicity once you get it set up. It’s so simple there’s no excuse for not hanging weights any time you get a few minutes :)

I understand your point now. And yeah, I’ll give them both a whirl. Thanks.

Hey Buster,

I’m sorry that I haven’t posted that pic yet. I’ll get right on it. I agree with TH in that you should try several approaches - why not?! However, I wanted to add a note of caution relative to hanging when you have a “few minutes”. I have a strong opinion about loosening up with a moist heat application prior to hanging. I always do a 5 min. heat application myself. I have a friend who is a Urologist and a closet PEer. He emphatically stressed the use of moist heat. In any case, take it for what it’s worth. Hey, I thought I read a post about you liking ramps. Is that true? If so, how can you get your wife to kiss you after eating those nasty things?

Happy hangin


Jelktoid :trash: More meat for the money!

warming up

I’m not saying it’s a bad thing to warm up, just that I’ve never done it but a dozen times in six years….

Jelkermier - what are ramps? What are you talking about dude?

Seriously, yeah I read your post on the urologist and after considering things I am sold on the moist heat. I use two rice socks for a total wrapup warmup/down, but I know moist heat is the way to go. And considering I will not risk f’n up with hanging, I figure it’s totally worth it. Thanks for the words. Now I gotta go eat some…. ramps?!?

The Lil' Buster

OK, it’s really just my version of TH’s AFB3.. Here’s what I’ve found good and bad:

*Strip Ties - tried them twice with different configurations; they just irritate my balls and it’s hard to get those things tight and flush to the hanger without making the hanger hard to open and close (for me).

*Bolt/Wingnut - tried it w/o the popoff setup. In other words, I just drilled two holes straight through the hanger pieces. Don’t like it as it is another bitch to open/close hanger quickly and without fuss. The ability to clamp down is nice but the bolt/nut add weight to the balance, so I’ll be trying the bead approach. Quick and simple. Hopefully. If that doesn’t work I do the wingnut with the popoff approach.

SO, here’s what I am doing on my second version (the first was a learner - factor that in when you expect to make your hanger):

1) Using pieces that are 4.5 inches in length. I want some separation from the rope (I use small braided rope for hanging the weights) and my penis. First one I tried was 4” and it’s a bit tight (for those of you with girth issues).

2) Simply drilling one 1/4” hole in either end. The hanging rope goes through each of these in one big loop. Pull them down to meet and attach “S” hook (diagram at TH’s site for the AFBv2). Now the front side of the hanger will have the wood carved out in a little notch to meet up with the hole in the front. That way I can pop the bead string closer into that hole (just like TH’s AFB3). The hanging rope and bead closer string share the same hole.

3) Using small diameter string (like a men’s shoelace) to close the backside up and keep knot on inside of hanger. This hole, like the front one, is also shared by the hanging rope and shoestring.

OK, that’s about it for the Lil’ Buster at this point, but I do want to mention one thing. I went to a hardware store to get my materials (I always go over the top). I couldn’t find a thick 12” ruler so I substituted a yardstick instead. This turned out to be a great idea as it gives you plenty of raw material to make a few hangers. Also, I doubled the thickness of the hanging pieces. I cut out four pieces and glued them into two sets. The wood is extremely light (I’d hesitate to say balsa) so I wanted that sturdiness. Holds up better to drilling also.

Sorry for the length. Will share how this next hanger works out.

Way to go

OK, now that you’re doing it we can talk…kind of gets the creative juices flowing, doesn’t it?

I think you’ll like the beads.

I’m a little confused about your ‘girth issue’ comment. My flaccid diameter is 1-3/8” - 1-1/2”, and I’ve got 1-1/2” of clear space between my dick and the strings when hanging (I drilled 1/8” holes, centered about 1/4” in from the ends). Are your dimensions significantly larger than that?

I believe having two holes in the back (the hinge end) adds stability and keeps my penis from twisting, though I’m not 100% on that. Curious how sometimes it just hangs straight, other times goes 90 degrees right or left).

I like the yardstick idea - we just broke one around here; think I’ll rescue the pieces if I can find them…. It’s definitely not balsa. Balsa has absolutely no strength whatsoever, tensile or compressive.

As for doubling, it’s not necessary. If the wood were to bend a little, I think that would please the people who want to improve the design by making it slightly concave, something I see no need for.

Buster and Tom,

Good idea using string instead of cable ties for the hinge. I’ll give it a try.

My wooden prototype has top and bottom hinge holes, and is hooked with two separate cable ties. The tie ends are annoying even when trimmed flush, especially when hanging BTC.

I think two rear hinge holes are better than one. Two give better stability and also provide some degree of toe adjustment if separate ties/cords are used for top and bottom.

As far as length, my AFB is 3 1/2”. I drilled separate holes for the string, so I have about 1 3/4” between the string holes, which is barely enough for me (my EG is 4.5”).

I’m using the pop-off bolt and wingnut deal on the top — pretty much the same as a Bib hanger. I like being able to finely tune the tension, so I doubt I’ll try beads.

Two things annoyed me with the bolt and wingnut set-up. First, the whole bolt turned when I tightened the wingnut. So, I tightened a square nut up against the bolt head (with a drop of Loc-Tite to keep it from loosening) and then inlaid a square in the wood to accept the nut. Now the nut keeps the bolt from turning. My hanger is made from a scrap that measures 1 1/4” wide by 3/8” thick, so there is enough depth to inlay the approx. 1/8” thick nut. You won’t be able to do this if using a single piece of ruler. It should work if you double the rulers as Buster has done.

The other bother is the washer I use under the wingnut. It is a hassle to get it scooted into place when attaching the hanger. I intend to inlay the washer where it belongs (r. side of hanger), glue it in place, and file out a notch on top, making it a “U”. I’m sick of fighting that little sucker.

I added some padding as an experiment. I glued pieces of an old neoprene mousepad inside the hanger. It may have made it a tad more comfortable, but not much. I probably won’t bother with it again if I make another.

Last edited by hobby : 05-26-2002 at .

Various replies

TH - I think it’s just the length between the holes that is the issue - the first ones were too close. My EG is a hair under 6” with a very healthy flaccid girth. Something tells me I’ll be backing down to a 4” length, but then again I am drilling 1/4” holes for a 1/4” braided rope. Which all may prove too heavyduty, but I like to work backwards.

Yeah, finally doing one gets you into the ballpark so as to play the game.

Hobby - I tried the double rear hinge holes on my first hanger. Didn’t know if they made a difference or not as I’ve not had just one, but both you and Tom say they do so I will assume so.

I also thought aobut the toe aspects of two hinge holes. I also thought it would be interesting to use fishing line to tie them together. Very strong and minimal size.

Originally posted by hobby

Two things annoyed me with the bolt and wingnut set-up. First, the whole bolt turned when I tightened the wingnut <snip>The other bother is the washer I use under the wingnut

I’ve never mentioned this, but yes, it is a real pain. I found that if you simply crank the nut as tight as you can, it doesn’t come loose. As for the washer, I simply don’t use one…just make sure the holes/notch are not way bigger than they need to be.

I added some padding as an experiment. I glued pieces of an old neoprene mousepad inside the hanger. It may have made it a tad more comfortable, but not much. I probably won't bother with it again if I make another.

My exact conclusions regarding any kind of padding on the device itself.

Nice to have the feedback…!

my first post

Hello All,

As this is my first post to the board, though I have been “lurking” for some time now, I would like to thank all of you who have constantly come up with new ideas on how to make this passion of ours a more productive pastime. TH, you are one of the most innovative and inspirational folks that I have come across since I started this whole PE thing. keep the ideas flowing. Here is my small contribution to the AFB scene. When you buy a length of pvc, one end is a coupling for the next piece of pipe to join to. When using 3/4 inch pipe you will find that the flat plates for home gyms fit perfectly on the pipe. I cut an approx. 8” piece of pipe above the coupling, fed a short piece of light dog chain through it and filled the pipe with an expanding cement product called Rockite. The chain was held in place on top with a small nail until the Rockite hardened (about 15 mins) then the nail was removed. On the bottom, I cut out a small notch in the coupling to hold the nail and allow the chain to stay inside the pipe without protruding beyond it, and after it dried, I cut the nail ends off. I will attempt to attach a diagram of what I did in case this explaination is a bit unclear.
Note: if using IE 6 click on the expand button to see the pic as it appears as just small lines

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Stretching in the sun

That's it!

The gizmo is history. Great idea!

Just when I thought I could rest on my laurels and take all the credit for everything. Sheesh… :)


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