PE4F Pumping at Full Vacuum

Of course. I hope somebody is able to replicate PE4F’s huge gains rate spike that he got when switching to this style of pumping. I can’t stress enough to re-read his posts, he’s the one who gained like crazy with this, not me. And he used a slightly different style, pumping more flaccid.

I’ve read his posts more than once. But your nuts and bolts approach to starting is more comprehensive and obviously more interactive. He stresses understanding stress and going by feel, which is vague. Hence my desire to talk to you a bit more in depth before buying a tube, drilling it and getting an industrial pump.

Understanding stress and going by feel on new equipment will be easy with your experience.

The cash outlay on this is more than most PE forms. Any pump should do, although I wouldn’t go above 4 CFM. You could drill an old tube if you don’t want to spend the extra cash after already buying a pump. Find some padding solution. And you’re in business.

I don’t think anyone should be apprehensive about trying this out. It may not get you incredible gains rate, but at the very least, as PE4F’s username suggests, and DomXZ and I both agree: It’s a fun way to pump. It pulls a full super erection in 1-3 seconds, over and over again.

Just gotta make sure nobody comes to investigate that strange loud noise.

:couch: :eek2: :rolling:

Most refrigeration vacuum pumps have what’s called a ballast, which is usually a brass plug located on top of the crankcase. You can utilize it by backing it out counterclockwise to control your vacuum level if you don’t want to use the isolation valve. It may dial in the pressure you’re looking to maintain a little more accurately and less touchy than the isolation valve. It is a separate plug from the oil fill plug but usually looks similar to it.

Thanks for this idea OP. Neat thread.

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My pump is 4.25 m3/h or about 2.5CFM of no particular brand. Drilled the hole with with an M3 bit, slow and steady to not heat up the plastic. Although, I doubt it matters much.

That said, I had to stop fairly early with my routine due to time constraints. Chance has it I started again 2 days ago.

I’m sure I can make it work safely, I’m not terribly worried about that. I just like some guidelines to follow before I start implementing all of my theorizing and ingenuity. Because invariably I always do. Having an idea of what to expect and how to manipulate the results to the bent of my goals is key.

In my reading of PE4F’s posts he stresses a tighter than normal fit on the cylinder and scaling it up in smaller increments. This has been an issue for me due to the conical and curved nature of my penis where the base girth and the mid girth are both vastly different and a different shape. I’m looking into a semi-custom tube, which if it works out I’ll post where I got it and what exact dimensions I’m using, and before I start drilling that tube I plan on using one of my older ones to test the inflation amount I get in one of my more reliable tubes that would be easier to replace if I don’t like the style of pumping. Padding solution I have and can keep with.

My Tiger Trap project fell flat because I cheaped out on the bolts and bent them. Then also, I needed a work bench to fabricate the TT panels properly so that they’d be even enough to close cleanly. My workspace was haphazard and cobbled together. This was my own fault. I won’t make these mistakes with this. Though I’ll need to somehow get access to a friend’s bench vice without him seeing me put pump tubes in them to drill…that’s gonna take some brainstorming. *chuckles*

Lock the door, then the noise can’t be investigated. Definitely ain’t havin’ someone walk in while I’m pumping again…awkward and more awkward to hide it.

Okay, so it occurs to me that it would vastly simplify the process if you could take pictures of your setup.

Specifically:
Hosing
pump adapter
Where the pump tubing adapter goes
Isolation valve, how it’s installed.

As I’m purchasing things and it occurs to me that if an isolation valve modulates pressure, I may have a more precise means of control and the hole is more for a sudden pressure drop.

I’m reasonably handy but completely unfamiliar with this hardware, hence the questions.

The adapter you want to screw on is a "female barbed hose adapter" here is a link to an affordable one on Amazon. Could also be called a "female barbed pipe fitting" or similar. Be careful what you pay for it because you could get one for 3 bucks or 15 bucks so shop around.

https://tinyurl.com/ycrjeq2b

You will need to determine the inner diameter of your hosing (barb size), and the diameter of your intake port (NPT female size) - and order the appropriate brass fitting size. I bought mine at a local hardware store, and if I remember correctly it was 1/4" barb and a 3/8" NPT female thread. The dimensions for your rig may be different.

Now you’ve got a barb that you can plug your pump hose onto just like the normal brake bleeder hand pumps.

I’ve never had to make an isolation valve, since mine is built into the pump. But if I were going to, I’d put an in-line ball valve in the hosing, like this:

https://www.ama … /dp/B00N26FFIQ/

Again, shop around for one for about 5 bucks rather than 30 bucks.

The isolation valve’s purpose is exactly what you said, to precisely modulate the flow of the pump. By partially closing the valve, you can create partial pressures, which as described in detail earlier in the thread is nearly essential to do a safe warm-up on PE4F pumping, in my opinion. You may also choose to stay at a partial pressure, and do your workout at a lower vacuum level. It’s just not possible to get that level of precision using partial coverage of the thumb hole only. For a few extra bucks, adding an in-line ball valve, or other isolation valve rig - should make the experience a lot more comfortable.

Excellent.

Now, I’m less sure that the thick vinyl hosing ice got will fit. Ought to but may not. And with the isolation valve, I may not need a thumbhole as I can just totally close the valve.

This was all very informative.

I’d still want the thumb hole there for safety purposes no matter how good my in-line valve was. But also to cycle the specific pressure (that you set with the isolation valve) on and off quickly. My concern with not having a thumb hole would be that I’m not sure if the pressure would release in the tube by opening and closing the valve. For example on my old hand pump, I could pump it up, then remove the hosing, and the tube would remain pressurized. Maybe it was some feature of the particular tube I had, but I would personally always want the thumb hole. I just wouldn’t want to mess around with even the remote possibility of getting stuck in the tube at 29”Hg for longer than I want.

For my isolation valve, when it’s halfway closed or less, I get a partial pressure (less than full vacuum) no matter how long I leave it going. But when it’s halfway closed or more, I get full vacuum pressure, and the amount of valve closure determines how fast the full vacuum is pulled. Your experience may vary.

I hope my advice on the in-line valve setup is accurate, maybe somebody with more experience in the industry could confirm whether it would work. I’m merely proposing how I might go about it.

Anyway good luck with it. I used the pump a couple times over the last few months after clamp workouts and think it contributed in some small way to my latest girth gain.

I’m not going to forgo it. I tossed it around but, fact is guys pump to vacuum pressure, then work out naked with a disconnected cylinder. That also would mean that a valve in the line wouldn’t release pressure necessarily. Any doubt is enough to nix the idea of skipping the safety hole.

I was just bouncing ideas about devices I’m woefully new to, compared to the stuff I’ve used before.

I will drill a 1/8” safety hole. Out of good policy to the technique alone. Safety and long term use also a factor.

With full vacuum cycling the skin gets stretched evenly and does not bruise significantly providing time is taken to pump up the penis shaft before sustaining full vacuum for 10 to 20 seconds each cycle. I take about 5 minutes of light cycling to get the shaft pumped up then gradually work up to longer periods at full vacuum. Once pumped up there should be not much space in the tube around the shaft and the skin will be in contact with a good proportion of the tube circumference.

If the penis is taken rapidly to full vacuum there will be appearance of micro ruptures or ecchymosis of the skin.

Vaseline is a good lubricant at it has low volatility and does not evaporate under full vacuum. I have also found that daily application of a small amount of vitamin E cream on the shaft, scrotum and glans after showering keeps the skin moist and supple. Skin is then less likely to dry out or blister when pumping.

Thanks for the tips.

Are you still actively pumping? Any more gains?

Hope the 9x7 life is treating you well.

I have not been doing anything consistently for three years. But circumstances have changed a bit and I now have a little more privacy and time so am doing some PE more consistently up to 4 or 5 times a week from 1 or 2 a week. I am still trying to fill the 10” length of the tube I have used for the last 4 years when pumped but that really requires consistent routine. It is hard to know if the gains are slower due to infrequent effort but there has been little change in three years.

I have got comfortable with my scrotum hanging 6 to 7 inches on a hot day. There is a benefit that I no longer get any rash on the upper thighs as my balls dangle past that area.