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How to avoid painful ring around base after pumping?

How to avoid painful ring around base after pumping?

Lately I’ve been consistently pumping and as always I’m struggling with a painful ring around the top of my base that gets dark red/purplish after 2 sets and painful at the surface (just the skin feels irritated, nothing internal). I don’t have a tube specifically for pumping as I just can’t afford one at the moment, so I use the tube from a gravel cleaner that’s 10 by 2in. I think the problem is my upward erection angle that makes for a weird angle that cuts into the skin slightly. Does anyone have any ideas for modifications or techniques that might help? I’m thinking about putting the base of the cylinder in boiling water until it’s malleable then widening the base slightly so it’s like a trumpet flared out on all sides. My only concern is whether I’ll be able to maintain a good seal with this modification. I also think a 2 1/4 tube might be better for my needs, but for the moment I’m just using this one and hoping for at least some length gains and relying on clamping for girth.

The boiling water thing might work. Some guys have carefully melted/heated the base over the stove or torch and then “curled ” it so it doesn’t have sharp edges. Several layers of Electrical tape will help as will plasti-dip. The stuff you can get to dip the handles of hand tools.


:_pump: :donatecar

Originally Posted by clgp7
The boiling water thing might work. Some guys have carefully melted/heated the base over the stove or torch and then “curled ” it so it doesn’t have sharp edges. Several layers of Electrical tape will help as will plasti-dip. The stuff you can get to dip the handles of hand tools.

Thanks for the advice. I’ve considered plastidip as well but since I’m packing the pump to begin with I’m not sure if I can sacrifice any more circumference. That will be my plan b though. Cheers.

Or cut about 4” of 2.5” motorcycle inner tube and stretch over the end onto the tube about 1.5” and then push the other end into the tube. Make sure the tube eis clean and dry. This is sorta like the old JO sleeve. Another tip is not to overdo the vacuum. I played around with those gravel cleaners and found that they collapsed after several month. But probably my fault for wrapping them with too warm cloths or heating pad.

Go to a sex toy/novelty shop. Some of those joints sell a silicone end that fits the opening of most tubes, to help protect your body from the pressure you’re describing. In most cases it also helps create a better seal.

I like the boiling water idea. I think that could work well.

Otherwise you could try clip-shield gaskets http://www.hollandshielding.com.tr/…ws&id=86&Lang=3


I'm a big fan of 50 Cent, or as we call him in Zimbabwe, four hundred million dollars.

I think you will need to be extremely careful about flaring out the end of your gravel tube with boiling water (or any other method using heat) for the simple reason that these tubes are made of very thin plastic. It is too easy to ruin your gravel tube just because it is so thin. You will likely get warping, buckles, or other distortions, nearby to the end you are flaring out because you can not control the conduction of the heat to these nearby areas. If you really want to try using heat, might I suggest taping around the circumference of the gravel tube at a point just above the proposed flare. Maybe this will prevent major distortions occurring where you don’t want them.

Instead of using heat, your best bet would probably be to build up a more blunted or wider edge upon the existing sharp edge. Maybe this can be achieved with one of these; plastidip, silicone sealant, hot glue, epoxy putty, or some other convenient moldable substance.

Good luck!


No, "mch" does not stand for "my cock's huger!"

... although it may do in the foreseeable future! :D

I ended up using plasti-dip. I think the flaring idea still would have worked. I wouldn’t have actually forced it out, I would have heated it, then placed gently down on a cone-shaped object, or maybe the top of an unopened 2liter bottle or something like that. Hindsight’s 2020 though, it definitely could have warped. The plasti-dip works great so far, the dried dip itself is actually frictiony, it’s almost like a taut balloon. But when I drench it in lube its fine. I’m not sure good it’s working because my skin is still sore from 3 days using the pre-dipped plastic (sanded down but still painful). It was definitely an improvement though.

I need to bump this one.

I got a vacuum cylinder which i’ve cut in a 60 degree angle in order to fit my high erection angle. The edges at the cut is right now pretty sharp, and is causing pain at the base. I’ve tried to sand it down, but without any luck. Would plasti-dip work in this case? Is it safe to get in conntact with your dick/skin over time?

Perhaps get a ring of rubber tube, they’re quite common in the plumbing departments in hardware stores where the larger diameter piping is found.. Cut a groove into it and fit over the cylinder..


Was - NBPEL 6.5" BPEL 7.5" MSEG 5.5" Now - NPBEL 8.1" BPEL 8.7" MSEG 6.3"

Originally Posted by Narrator
I got a vacuum cylinder which i’ve cut in a 60 degree angle in order to fit my high erection angle. The edges at the cut is right now pretty sharp, and is causing pain at the base. I’ve tried to sand it down, but without any luck. Would plasti-dip work in this case? Is it safe to get in conntact with your dick/skin over time?

Narrator, interesting application! Have thought about this before, but not tried it. Can’t remember right now having read that anyone else actually tried this either.

I have never used plastidip or read the instructions for it, so I’m not sure of it’s safety in contact with the skin when cured or dry. However, a lot of guys have used it or suggested use of it for these purposes, so I can only assume those guys all are okay with its use. Best to read the labels and instructions for yourself before deciding on it’s use, as you should with any product you might use. Definitely in the uncured (wet) state this stuff is nasty, especially the volatile agents in it, so be careful if you do intend to use it.

If you choose to use plastidip, you will need repeated multiple applications of it otherwise it will be too thin for your purposes. Personally, I would not use it for the simple reason that there are better solutions available for the problem of sharp edges on your cylinder.

Hope you will keep us updated what you do and how it works out for you.


No, "mch" does not stand for "my cock's huger!"

... although it may do in the foreseeable future! :D

I’d advise buying a real tube if these other ideas don’t work for you.

The bostonpump tubes are economical and well built. Various designs in the $55.00 to $60.00 range.

Maybe that seems like a lot of money. However it seems like you are in some pain with your thin razor blade like fish tube cutting into you.

I have “Standard Design” and I like it, although that may not be for you as it narrows at the entrance (the “built-in cockring” feature

http://www.bostonpump.com/index.asp…WPROD&ProdID=12

These other styles seem like they would work well for you:

Contour Design
http://www.bostonpump.com/index.asp…WPROD&ProdID=10

Flatbend
http://www.bostonpump.com/index.asp…WPROD&ProdID=11

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