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Twisting in Bib Hangers: Not this way.



Just wondering what you think of this idea. What about if the hinge which you removed is installed in the center of the bottom bascal screws and not the LHS half. That way you would have 4 smaller bascal screws attached onto the 2 halves and still be able to utilize the spread wide configeration.



>I am alittle confused, but BTW I have not tried wide angle settings adj. yet cause I am waiting for HTW to arrive.

I look forward to hearing about your HTW + spread wide Starter when you get them.

>My expereinces over the last three years have lead me too thinking that if one stuffs up their wrapping then the flow on effect from that point is a bad hanging session regardless of what setting they have on their BIB hanger.

I share that experience. With the top teeth padding removed, I’m using just two layers of HTW; that’s one app 2/3 - 3/4 length HTW folded. Circulation is superior to any combination of wrapping and BH settings I’ve used previously.

>Now to my confusion. You are saying that you first tighten one of the bottom basal screw wingnuts to snug in the RHS half until the plastic touches up to the nut on the inside and this nut has its own locknut to prevent you from losing your particular setting. Then you finally snug up the upper wingnut for final tightening procedure.

Is that what you explained in previous posts above? Also I have never noticed any of xeonilth’s posts saying it that way. DId I miss something in his referrences to spread wide confrigurations?

Yes, I don’t recall seeing xeno mentioning that. A point of self-criticism might be that I’m actually confusing more than helping by bringing up details such as that one without pictures for reference. It’s something you’d find for yourself anyway, what works and what doesn’t. Both wide spread and significant toe out work to make that procedure necessary for me. With less spread and toe out, you may not find it necessary.

I’m borrowing pics from a Starter for sale thread, to illustrate a few things with paint.

Pic 1: No hinge
Grey: basal bolts
Blue: locknuts
Red: plates

The front is kept toed out at a fixed distance. No tightening necessary on the toed out bolt, because it will tighten along with the toed in bolt, and naturally come to a halt at the locknuts.

Pic 2:
Grey: basal bolts
Blue: locknuts
Green: wingnuts
Black: plastic distances
Red: plates

The plastic distances are optional. I use them for finger comfort when tightening, although they’ll add to the total necessary bolt length.


Attached Images
2 - outside.JPG
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I have actually found a better way to avoid twisting in the bib starter. I also have an oval shaped shaft. I have 3 bib starters, so I stripped the padding from the oldest and tried hanging with only my wrap of theraband and ace bandage. Without the gel padding, the bib grips like a mother and I get absolutely no twisting - AT ALL. I don’t necessarily advocate stripping a perfectly good bib, but it worked for me and since I hang fairly heavy (25-28 lbs.) twisting was always an issue.

Jelktoid :trash: More meat for the money!


I know you’ve been on top of this issue for a long while (links, post #1). Thanks for sharing your experiences.

Incidentally, I also have three Starters to play with (one broken, but working with a makeshift fix), and I agree with you: all else equal, no padding works absolutely best to rid twisting. I also find it easier to adjust the shaft and pull back skin during the semi-tightening procedure when attaching the non padded; at least with the low friction HTW I’m using, the difference is significant. And non padded, it does grip like a mama.

Still, with the padded Starter (only top teeth padding stripped off), I can spread it wide enough to completely avoid twisting simply due to the secure placement of the shaft low and wide. Both work for me; I only hang low to moderate weights right now, and I can’t comment on which will be my preferred hanger for heavy weights.
What I’m dwelling on right now is whether I should experiment further and grind down the top teeth on my non padded, and maybe get the best of the best (for my oval shaft), save for a smaller top cavity which may constrict circulation: too much grinding down on the top teeth should yield a suboptimal modification.

Spread wide Starter works for me; it’s my best hanging yet. There’s no need to irreversibly alter anything on the Starter just to give it a try. Those who get best results at maximum engagement of the top teeth may actually have their optimal results with top padding (or all padding) stripped and teeth grind down; but I wouldn’t recommend irreversibly altering a good hanger without testing and taking notes first.



I will get back too you in a few days with questions on your drawings. Thanks for that.



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