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Took a stab at making the chicken choker last night.

Took a stab at making the chicken choker last night.

Didn’t quite work out like I’d hoped — I was hoping to be able to use it without wrapping (ala Pirate Steve).

I fashioned it out of flexible 3/4” flexible electrical conduit. It’s a relatively rigid, yet grippy, product. It has a slight bend to it, which I tried to fashion so that the concave sides would face one another, thus giving a little more gripping surface. However, when cinched, the hanger ended up with the convex (pointed) sides cinching together. I think if I flip the pieces around and re-tie it will work better.

Had a lot of problems figuring the toe-in, toe-out curve — was hoping for something very simple, but it had a little bit of a learning curve to it. Maybe one out of 3 times I could get it to hang without pinching, compressing the dorsal nerve, slipping down to the sides of the head, etc. I think part of the problem is that the slipping action is not very smooth — I think I need to drill out the holes a little bit so that the nylon cord slips a little easier.

I ended up eventually just wrapping with a very thin nylon sock, putting a cable clamp about an inch below the glans and letting that support the hanger. I’m not sure if this is a good approach In terms of the dorsal nerve. I’m still new to everything. The head did discolor somewhat and was slightly cool, but didn’t seem dead… But then again, I don’t really know enough yet to know if it was OK. Eventually, the sides of my dick where the hanger was attached ended up pretty sore (is this OK?), and it seemed that the base of my dick was relatively sore too (but nothing too overwhelming).

I only used 3-3/4 lb at this point. Need to understand how to get this really working well before I add any. How big of an issue is skin? How do you know if you’re grasping the internal structure or just stretching skin? I can’t wrap for shit, so right now, I’m just trying to move the skin back, cinch the hanger, let the skin go, then add the weight. I’m sure some skin is getting in there (I’m cut by the way), but don’t know how big of an issue this is.

Sorry for the long rant, was just a little frustrated, had hoped it would go a little smoother.

Super,
Would be nice to hear from the Chicken himself on this one. I made mine out of rectangular markers and added some aquarium silicone to the inside surfaces and I am very happy with it for what it does. In fact, I just put it on and am hanging 10 pounds right now! With my one bad hand, the BIB got to be too much after the third set today. Now on to your difficulties. I don’t know anything about round pipe on the choker, but there were posts from some who tried it and liked it. I did use a round file on the holes I drilled in mine to smooth them out, perhaps that would help on yours. Also, I use a braided shoelace for the string, and I find it to work well. Perhaps different types of cord have different effects?

I can’t see how clamping below the hanger could be a good thing. The hanger should hold the weight you are using without it no problem. On my choker, the sharp edges of the rectangular markers squeeze tight when weight is applied, and it is tight enough that it is indeed grabbing internal structures and not just skin. I know the silicone beads I put on mine eliminated the slipping and positioning problems you report. Perhaps you could try some - but be sure to use aquarium grade silicone as the other kind is toxic.

I am wondering, since you mention the pipe bends, perhaps your pieces of pipe are too long? I just measured the center to center distance of the holes I drilled on the side pieces at 2” If yours are further apart, perhaps effort is lost and turned into bending the pipe instead of gripping your dick? And did you squish your pipe or is it still round? I think it would be more effective squished, because of the way it grips behind the coronal ridge.


"In an honest Service there is thin Commons, low Wages, and hard labour; in this (Piracy), Plenty and Society, Pleasure and Ease, Liberty and Power; and who would not balance Creditor on this side when all the Hazard that is run for it, at worst, is only a sour Look or two at choaking. No, A merry Life and a short one, shall be my Motto."--Bartholomew Roberts

Great thoughts PirateSteve — it was actually one of your posts that inspired me to make the chicken choker. I read about you using the silicone bead, I was hoping that due to the rubbery outside consistency of the conduit that I might not have to…

Perhaps the lengths are too long — the lengths aren’t so flexible that they bend from the weight, but the weight distribution is weird. The conduit pieces are 4” — the holes are drilled about 1/2” or so in from the ends, so I’d estimate they are about 3” centerline to centerline… I know that I do need to flip the pieces though so that it grips like “<>” as opposed to “><”. Perhaps that alone will solve the problem. One question, with a 2” centerline measurement and no wrap, do you have problems with your skin getting pulled into one of the holes along with the cord? (ouch!)

I have not squished the pipe — I bet it would grip better that way. I wonder if it would hinder movement of the cords overly? (I’m using a braided nylon cord, similar to a clothesline.)

So I guess I should eliminate the cable clamp? I think I was just tired of working with it last night and wanted a quick solution… How do you actually know you’re grabbing your internal structure as opposed to the skin? What does it feel like? (I know this is a bit of a stretch — kinda like asking somebody what “red” looks like.) And how comfortable should a hanger of this type be? Is soreness normal where the hanger grasps?

Sorry for all the questions, I do appreciate your help.

Well Super, lets see how I can help here. I have a pretty wide dick (6” girth at the head), and the cord does ride against it, but it has not pinched me yet (knock on wood). Mine does not grip like <> or ><, more like / . If you squished the pipe, I imagine you might have to re-drill the holes to get the cord to run free through them - but by my figuring you should re-drill anyway.

Grabbing internals instead of skin might be tough pass on. When I fist started out with my BIB, I was hanging skin instead of the ligs I wanted - I think everyone does when they start hanging, the skin is the first limiting factor. I tell by pinching the skin just above the root of my dick while hanging SD or BTC - if the skin is tight I am stretching skin, if it is loose, I am hitting the internals. With the Chicken, it is the same tension as with my BIB, and in both cases I am now no longer stretching skin.

Unfortunately, I am not the one who can help you with soreness or comfort issues. Due to grievous injuries 20 years ago, and the subsequent time learning how to shut down my bodies pain receptors, I do not feel things the same way others do. I can tell if something hurts or not, but not how much - and I don’t really feel it as “pain.” The choker does not give me “pain”, so I presume it probably will not give you pain either once you get it right.

Chicken, where are you?


"In an honest Service there is thin Commons, low Wages, and hard labour; in this (Piracy), Plenty and Society, Pleasure and Ease, Liberty and Power; and who would not balance Creditor on this side when all the Hazard that is run for it, at worst, is only a sour Look or two at choaking. No, A merry Life and a short one, shall be my Motto."--Bartholomew Roberts

Thanks PirateSteve. I have the a similar, but perhaps less pronounced, problem (?) with pain. I have a high threshold, so I sometimes perceive things as being uncomfortable rather than hurtful.

That’s a good tip about checking the base for loose skin, I will do that.

Another question about the cable clamp just occured to me: the clamp is used on some of the other hanger designs (i.e. wench), albeit lower on the dick, I wonder how that is different than using it as a stopper to keep the bars of the chicken choker from sliding down?

Quote
Originally posted by SuperSizeMe

Another question about the cable clamp just occured to me: the clamp is used on some of the other hanger designs (i.e. wench), albeit lower on the dick, I wonder how that is different than using it as a stopper to keep the bars of the chicken choker from sliding down?

Anybody?

Guys,

I’ve been using a killer version of the CHICKENCHOKER HANGER for about 3 weeks now.

It’s just 1” PVC pipe for the pillars ( 3 inches long apiece ). No concave or convex curves, no flat surfaces, and not even beaded silicone - although the silicone will improve it. The oversized pillars are super user-friendly.
You almost want to smile as they hug your dick.

It just grabs your dick solid, comfortably, and instantly when you lower the weight on the hook. You still have to wrap your dick though and use a second thin wrap as a stopper at midshaft or maybe closer to the head.
You may not need this second wrap if you use silicone to bead it.

It’s still the fastest on and off hanger EVER!!! It takes 1 second to position the pillars on your midshaft ( toe in on top, and I like to use a nearly 45 degree angle when seen from the side so it kinda conforms to the same angle of the side of your dick head ). It takes 1 second to lower the weight on the hook which makes the pillars go into instant hyperlock on your cock. It takes 1 second to remove the weight, which then allows your dick’s diameter to pop the pillars open. And it takes 2 seconds to wiggle the pillars off your dick - if they didn’t fall out during the weight removal step.
:)

Hey SuperSizeMe, try using that cable clamp instead of the second wrap I mentioned as a stopper! Try angling it at that 45 degrees that I mentioned above. Maybe not a full 45, but let’s say 30 degrees from the horizontal.
This would make unwrapping quicker if it works! ;)

I haven’t posted in a while for a few reasons. I’ve been really busy at work and at home. My gains have stalled, not because of having less PE time but because my ligs are really demanding more intensity AND time.
However, I found out I was wrapping too loosely this whole time and now I’m able to use 10 lbs. ( I made almost all my hanging gains, 3/4”BPEL, only using under 7.5 lbs. ). I also have not gotten a digital camera yet so I can’t show you all this oversized version of the hanger. :(

And lastly, I haven’t had time to make the Capt’s Wench which I, as a hanger inventor myself, feel am obligated to do for comparison purposes. I owe this website my best and I just haven’t had the time lately.

Happy Holidays.


Starting: 5 BPEL x 4.5 EG on 4/19/03

Latest: 6 BPEL x 5 EG on 2/17/04

Goal: 7 BPEL x 6 EG


Last edited by chickenchoker : 12-04-2003 at .

When you make this hanger out of straight round pillars just drill or melt the holes straight through and close to the ends.

You don’t have to be extremely accurate about the position of the holes. The design allows you a large margin for error.

Here is the original thread:
My Two-dollar Chickenchoker Hanger!!


Starting: 5 BPEL x 4.5 EG on 4/19/03

Latest: 6 BPEL x 5 EG on 2/17/04

Goal: 7 BPEL x 6 EG

Quote
Originally posted by chickenchoker

It's still the fastest on and off hanger EVER!!! It takes 1 second to position the pillars on your midshaft ( toe in on top, and I like to use a nearly 45 degree angle when seen from the side so it kinda conforms to the same angle of the side of your dick head ). It takes 1 second to lower the weight on the hook which makes the pillars go into instant hyperlock on your cock. It takes 1 second to remove the weight, which then allows your dick's diameter to pop the pillars open. And it takes 2 seconds to wiggle the pillars off your dick - if they didn't fall out during the weight removal step.

Why is removal and return speed important? So you can squeeze the extra blood out from accumulating in your dick head every 5 min. so it doesn’t stay blue.

It’s lift the weight ( not all the way off the hook ), squeeze the head, and then set the weight back down.

:) …in seconds flat….


Starting: 5 BPEL x 4.5 EG on 4/19/03

Latest: 6 BPEL x 5 EG on 2/17/04

Goal: 7 BPEL x 6 EG

Nice! I had read about somebody (you?) using the straight 1” PVC pipes (you are talking about 1” round pipe, right?), so I bought a couple of those at the same time as I did the electrical conduit in anticipation of making one with those materials. I just thought the electrical conduit would work, so I built it first.

I tell ya… I messed around with the one I had made last night for another 1/2 hour or so… OK… an hour. I’ve come to the conclusion that the flexible electrical conduit would probably be good for some of the girthier guys, but isn’t going to work for me (yet… lol…). Even though the donut hole in the middle (formed by the curved pieces) is narrow when cinched, my dick squishes flat to the extent that it (the hanger) slips off. I have a relatively thin dick (I think — it’s a little over 4” girth flaccid) though, although length is average.

I had spent some time overhauling it — the holes were cut 2-1/4 centerline to centerline, I used washers underneath the knots to eliminate the chance of a knot becoming partially pulled into a hole and taking away from the smoothness of the apparatus, and the pieces were flattened somewhat to provide more of a gripping surface. I think it’s a good design, but I’ll have to wait till I’m a little thicker to use it. I remember thinking to myself, “damn, I could’ve done a couple hundred jelqs by now,” as I was messing around with the hanger.

I’ll tell you what I did end up doing after I gave up on that version and was getting ready to hang it up (pun intended) for the night… On my workbench, I had some plastic spacers, maybe 1-1/2” x 2-1/2” that I had used for a floating floor system I installed. I took those spacers and with the help of a thin double wrap (one over the skin of the penis, one over the spacers) I made a kind of splint on my dick. The spacers were in a slight v-shape so that the spacers gripped the sides/bottom of my dick and the top had a little space so as not to become compressed under weight. I then took a lifting strap (for those that don’t know, it’s basically a canvas length of strap with a sewed-in flat loop on one end; it’s used by looping the end in to form a noose, which is then fitted over the wrist to leave a dangling length of strap that you would wrap around a barbell to improve grip). These will cinch very tight, so I opened the noose and fit it over my dick and splints, cinched it down hard, and used a quick clamp to hang about 4 lb.

Was very comfortable, gripped well and didn’t discolor my dick during the time I was using it. That said, I didn’t have very long to use it as I had spent so much time dicking around with the other hanger, that my PE time was up for the night (I’m stealth PE’ing for awhile until I have some results to speak of).

So, that’s where I’m at now. One question, when you say angle the cable clamp, you mean if I had my dick stretched out perpendicular to my body and I’m looking straight down, the foot of the clamp (on the bottomside of my dick) would be angled more forward than the top of the clamp?

I’m looking forward to trying the design with the 1” pipes. That was a good tip about easing pressure to squeeze the blood out of your dick… I may just learn a few things yet…

Quote
Originally posted by SuperSizeMe

So, that's where I'm at now. One question, when you say angle the cable clamp, you mean if I had my dick stretched out perpendicular to my body and I'm looking straight down, the foot of the clamp (on the bottomside of my dick) would be angled more forward than the top of the clamp?

I'm looking forward to trying the design with the 1” pipes. That was a good tip about easing pressure to squeeze the blood out of your dick… I may just learn a few things yet…

Yes!

Use the angled clamp instead of a second wrap for a stopper. The stopper wrap that I use butts up against the top V-edge of my dick head and that’s uncomfortable.

Lemme know how it works, ok?


Starting: 5 BPEL x 4.5 EG on 4/19/03

Latest: 6 BPEL x 5 EG on 2/17/04

Goal: 7 BPEL x 6 EG

Will do. :)

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