Rethinking the Bib Hanger
For about a year now, I’ve been a very big advocate of the Captain’s Wench—especially the Wenchette variant. I’ve been impressed with its simplicity, thrift, effectiveness, and ease of use.
However, I’ve run into a limit with the Wenchette. It simply does not work well for me above about 15#. The adhesive holding the gripper pads in place starts to creep, and the device starts to come apart. It also becomes markedly less comfortable.
During a recent hanging workout, I decided to increase the weight to just over 16#. Rather than risk it with my Wenchette, I pulled my old Bib Hanger from the drawer and clamped it on.
Understand that I have a bad history with this device. My last experience using it caused me terrible ventral discoloration, a lot of discomfort, and considerable skin stretch. I have bad memories.
But I’ve learned a lot since then. My initial change was to configure the hanger like Hobby and Xenolith have suggested— like / \ instead of like | | or \ /. I cranked the top nut to the limit. The second change was to use a pair of HTWs as a wrap. In my opinion Theraband is ancient technology and has been completely obsoleted by HTWs. The last change was to roll the HTWs into a light constriction ring in front of the hanger.
With these changes and at the 16# level, this hanger was damn comfortable. I had no problems at all. In fact, I inadvertently let my set run a full 30 minutes without noticing. This leads me to rethink the Bib Hanger, even considering my earlier bad experience.
I may be spending a lot more time in this hanger.
That said, the Bib Hanger needs improvement. Here is a short list of my pet peeves:
- The plastic encapsulating the top screw needs to be thicker to prevent break-out through the hole.
- The top screw is too slow. A faster, less precise screw should be used.
- The bottom screws should be spring-loaded so that the interior nuts are not needed. This would make the hanger more adjustable while being worn. Faster screws would also come in handy here.
- Bushings should be provided through the plastic holes near where the bottom nuts attach, to prevent the screw threads from binding against the plastic.
- Stop nuts should be used to hold the nylon strap to the plastic shells. I made this change on my own hanger to prevent the straps from falling off mid-set.
- The screws that hold the side straps should be moved up (closer the to top screw). As it stands, the hanger causes the penis it curve up under load because it doesn’t pull along the plane of the penis’ greatest resistance. The screws should be on the same plane as the dorsal surface of the penis. They should not be in the middle. Ideally, the positions of the screws should be adjustable.
Enter your measurements in the PE Database.
Last edited by ModestoMan : 07-11-2006 at .