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My perfect 1 incher?

Hi guys,

Went to Home Depot today and found the turn-key clamps (yellow keys). I bought the 6 pack of various sizes and when I got home tried out the wenchette with the new clamp and oh man, all I can say is this thing provides some great clamping pressure!!

Matter of fact, for as long and as many times as I’ve tried using the wench correctly only now have I felt the “real” potential in the shaft the hanger can give.

Which leads me to a question. Since the turn-key clamp produces way more clamping pressure I noticed (for the first time) what felt like a bulge or hump of sorts mid-shaft or a little back toward the base.

I had the hanger cranked down pretty tight, more than what I was use to using the cable clamp, anyway, as I slowly tugged the hanger forward with my hand I felt the hanger kinda jump over this lump, hump…something???

Question is, was what I felt the actual internal structure inside my unit? Is this where the hanger should be attached to stress the internals? have I been missing something here??

Actually, I want to mention that as tight as the hanger was, the hanger jumped this hump thing (mid-shaft) and kind of hurt some, and scared the piss out of me but I thought, maybe this is what I’ve been missing in my hanging and having such trouble with head pressure at different times.

I hung 9 lbs with the hanger and new clamp but during the set the weight pulled the hanger toward the head causing the ol’ swelling to return in the head again.

So guys what do you all think? Does this sound like internal structure and where I need to place the hanger, or attach it more toward the head and rest on the shoulders of the bunched up skin above the head?

I’m just trying to make this clear to myself so hanging will be more effective. Previous problems probably due to inadequit (sp?) hanger tightness and possibly attachment point??

Appreciate any thoughts!

Ouch! It sounds like you tighened the clamp before pulling it forward. This can be painful!

You described it perfectly. You successfully clamped the hanger to your “internal structures,” specifically your tunica. The problem, however, is that the skin and facia are simply too loosely adhered to the tunica for the hanger to stay in this position once the weight is applied.

I should have made this clearer. The proper way to tighten the hanger IMO is to screw it down a little bit, while pulling the loop (where you hang the weight) and allowing the hanger to slide forward a bit. Then continue tightening. Every time you crank the clamp down another “notch,” tug a little bit on the loop to make sure you’re not gripping mid-shaft.

Ideally, again IMO, you want the hanger to settle just behind the glans when the weight is applied. This is a little tricky to pull off, since you also want to apply the hanger just below your circumcision scar (or in a similar area for uncut guys) when you first put it on. Some skin stretching is usually needed to pull this off.

As weight is applied, the hanger pulls some skin forward and the skin kind of engulfs the corona. It is important that the skin does this because it really helps to protect the delicate corona from the rough hanger and wrap.

Here’s the process I use:

—Apply wrap 1/8” to 1/2” below circ scar (or about 1” to 1.25” below glans).
—Apply hanger so that its leading edge aligns with the leading edge of the hanger (or just a tad behind it).
—Apply clamp and tighten it SLIGHTLY.
—Tug on hanger’s loop to pull hanger and skin forward toward glans, tightening clamp as you go.
—Tug harder as the clamp is tightened. Further tighten as needed to support the desired weight.
—Apply weight; adjust tightness of clamp.
—Monitor tightness during set; adjust as needed.

For some reason, gripping tightly after the hanger has slid down toward the glans results in a more stable arrangement than gripping closer to the base. I think the glans has a lot to do with this. The hanger will generally not slide forward over the glans (as long as it holds enough blood).

What I think keeps the hanger in place near the glans (but not mid-shaft) is the “plug” formed by the expanded glans and the most distal parts of the CCs. The plug resists forward movement of the hanger.

You can feel this plug when you jelq. The o-grip readily slides forward in the mid-shaft region, but meets a barrier as you approach the glans. This barrier is the “plug” I’m talking about.

You’re probably thinking that this “plug” is a dangerous area to work in. For example, you’re never supposed to jelq over the glans. I think hanging does present a similar danger to jelqing over the glans. However, hanging is probably safer since the hanger does not slide over the glans (as the hand would) and simply holds the “plug” in place at more or less constant pressure. If the glans is comfortable with the weight applied, there is probably little risk of injury to the area.

BTW: Bib used to say he could grip his tunica mid-shaft without it sliding forward. I’ve personally never been able to pull this off with more than a couple of pounds, and don’t know of anyone else who has been able to do this. If anyone has, I hope they’ll speak up.

Enter your measurements in the PE Database.

Modesto Man, yes you’re definately right about all this. I have been placing the hanger on the shaft exactly as you describe prior to last nights “hump jump”. I’ll be do it the way you describe which is pretty much how I go about it anyway.

I agree with what you said about gripping mid-shaft and not sliding forward. I don’t know how Bib did it but then again the man knew his hanging and could handle the weight. I think if I lowered the weight to 2- 3lbs I could then take the weight attached to the internal structures but no way can I take it with heavy weight.

Yes, I know the “plug” you described. I had the 9lbs hanging on the plug after I loosened the clamp some and allowed the hanger to slide forward toward the glands a bit, then retightened for it to settle down resting on the shoulders of the plug and glands.

Ok, I’ve learned something from this exchange. Just wanted to make sure I wasn’t doing it wrong. Based on your description of wrap, hanger placement and tightening sequence I believe I’m on the right track!

I’ll continue to experiment with lighter weight attachment on the internal structure (tunica) and see If I can hang from it.. maybe not..probably not. If it dosen’t work, I won’t force the issue and return to hanging as usual.

Thanks Modesto Man, excellent description of hanging technique you gave! Much appreciated.

Hey guys! This is for Modesto Man and anyone else using the new Turn-key clamps to tighten their hangers with. I thought this was important so wanted to inform you guys. Today after doing a hanging set and after removing the hanger, wrap etc and with a bright light in my bedroom I saw a lot of shiney particles on the gland and behind the gland of my unit.

Looking more closely I found it to be tiny metal particles (a lot of particles!). I think that it had to come from the turn-key clamp, no other metal is used with the wenchette so I decided it had to come from the clamp. I imagine with it being new and judging from the country of origin it’s not made the best in the world. I assume that the turning and tightening of the clamp cut small slivers from the clamp and they landed on my unit!

I washed off with cool water and hopefully removed the tiny fragments…couldn’t see any after washing off in a bright light. Hopefully there all gone. Needless to say though, I won’t be using this clamp again around jr. as I don’t want this stuff getting embeded in my skin!!

The key however is a nice element of the clamp and don’t know If it will work with a higher quality made clamp. I removed the key but appears to only work with the Turn-key clamp. I haven’t noticed any problems with my unit from the metal since yesterday for the first time and hope I don’t.

Just wanted to let you all know about this and to watch out for it. May not be nothing to worry about but better safe than sorry.


I still haven’t tried turn-key clamps yet, but I would assume that some metal might come off at first.

That doesn’t sound good. I think it’s likely that this is a break-in issue with the new clamp. I certainly understand you might not be too eager to put it near your unit, and I’m relieved that you found the problem before it did any damage.

The way I use the clamps, there’s a fair amount of wench material between the clamp and my skin, so the risk of any direct cutting is low. There’s always the chance, though, that a small fragment of metal might fall off an cause a sliver or cut.

I had a problem with a small chunk of metal with the second clamp I used. It happened the first time I used it, but not after. I think it was a piece of extraneous metal that was left over from the manufacturing process. I reported it in this thread but had frankly forgotten about it.

Add that to the risks of using these clamps.

Enter your measurements in the PE Database.

I made a small but possibly important modification to my Wenchette this morning, that I think is going to really improve my hanging experience (and hopefully results).

The modification is simple. The Wenchette has two pads—a first pad at one end and a second pad about 1.5” inside the first pad. I moved the second pad about 1/4” further away from the first pad. That’s it. The result is that a pad orientation that originally looked like |O| now looks more like /O.

When the Wenchette is closed and clamped, the dorsal edges of the pads are only 1/2” apart. The result has been a much better grip against the dorsal aspect of my CCs. When hanging SO, the pull against the dorsal parts of the shaft and the ligs was stupendous—much better than before.

I was previously having big problems managing the weight at 15# and above. My penis would tend to slip back through the hole in the Wench. The recent change appears to have solved this problem. I’ve tried it for about 10 minutes at 15#, and it was awesome. I would have kept it up except for the fact that there was a knock at my door and, now, there are lots of people around the house.

Wenchette users, please give this a try and let me know how it works.

Enter your measurements in the PE Database.

Last edited by ModestoMan : 01-17-2006 at .

Sounds more perfect to me.

originally: 6.5" BPEL x 5.0" EG (ms); currently: 9.375" BPEL x 6.75" EG (ms)

Hidden details: Finding xeno: a penis tale; Some photos: Tiger

Tell me, o monks; what cannot be achieved through efforts. - Siddhartha Gautama

Originally Posted by ModestoMan
I hope you’ll come back and post your impressions of the Wenchette once you build one.

My first and only impression is that maybe we ought to go back to calling it The Wench?

Originally Posted by CaptnHook
Other Thoughts on the Captn’s Wench

Long and Short
A great feature of the Wench is the flexibility it offers to men of varying sizes. As I noted, simply moving the distance between the Gripper rectangles allows a custom fit for any girth or shape.
Even better, with PE being the realm of “smaller” men the Wench allows you to alter its dimensions to better suit your flaccid LENGTH as well as girth. By simply sizing down every 2” measurement in the instructions one can create a “shorter” Wench to accommodate a shorter flaccid length.
Trimming the Velcro band horizontally from 10”x 2” to a thinner 10”x 1 ½”, and the Grippers rectangles from 1”x 2” to 1”x 1 ½” – you end up with a more appropriately proportioned cylinder should your flaccid length demand it.

From: The Captn’s Wench: PE Device

Some times I wonder where I spend my time. It thought it was here at Thunders but I guess I must be skimming or I was on vacation when this thread started.

Anyway Look for the Turn-Key clamps on my website soon. I’ve contacted the Company and will bring them in ASAP. These things were only introduced as of April of last year. They’re fairly new.

An Additional note: These clamps notoriously will shed some metal fragments but with the application of a little grease to the worm screw that can pretty much be eliminated as well as provide much easier tightening making them last a lot longer.

I have 2”, and 3/4” One-Wrap on the website but will bring in some 1” for Wenchett’s Watch for the addition.

09-2003 BPEL:6.0x5.5

11-2004 BPEL:8.25x6.25 . . 9+ by Spring is the goal AIR CLAMP

Now BPEL:8 5/8 x 6 5/8 PE Weights

Cool thread. Any updates?

CHeers, KaMeL

Yeah, I too am wondering how this is working out since its been a while since this thread originated. I have my regular 2” wide wench and have been thinking about cutting it down to 1 1/2” and trying that.

Jan 1st/07 - 7 14/16'' BP 4 Month Growth Comparison Pics - First Clamping pics

Feb 2009 - 8.15'' BP / 7.4'' NBP x 5.1'' EG New pics

Originally Posted by CaptnHook


My first and only impression is that maybe we ought to go back to calling it The Wench?


You haven’t been back for a while and I don’t know whether you still check in. I just now read your post above, which is over 2 years old. It sounds a little like you might be thinking that I’ve infringed on or misappropriated your idea.

Of course, the Wenchette is a modified version of the Wench. You even described it in your initial post (as you quoted above). I actually thought you had invented the term, “Wenchette.”

Regardless, it is clearly your design, which I have greatly appreciated.

I do think I am responsible, however, for recognizing (or at least publicly stating) that the 1” Wench may be superior to the 2” Wench even for guys who are long enough to use the 2” Wench. It turns out that the width of the Wench doesn’t matter very much and narrower Wenches are easier to tighten and control. Possibly, something even smaller than 1” would work even better.

Certainly you didn’t promote the idea of replacing the cable clamp with the Turn-Key clamp, which I feel gives much more controllable compression. I don’t think the fact that the Turn-Key clamp has a flexible shape is a problem. It assumes a roughly round shape under compression. The pads placed within the Wench ensure that pressure on the penis is higher just below the pads than elsewhere. In other words, the oblong shape of the Cable Clamp is not really necessary to achieve the desired effect.

Finally, I think I recognized that moving the pads from their initially opposite ( |0| ) positions to positions closer to the top of the hanger ( /0\ ) gives a better stretch to the dorsal surface of the tunica. You recognized that the pads could be moved to accomodate different girths and shapes. But this is a different idea. I’m saying that the pads can be moved to focus stress on different surfaces of the tunica.

Again, you may have recognized all of this when you first invented the Wench, but I don’t recall your ever having written about any of it. Please feel free to correct me if I’ve missed something.

I don’t think I’ve taken credit for anything that belongs to you.

Enter your measurements in the PE Database.

Last edited by ModestoMan : 03-07-2008 at .

Don’t you think you had a little help coming up with your “small but possibly important modification”?

originally: 6.5" BPEL x 5.0" EG (ms); currently: 9.375" BPEL x 6.75" EG (ms)

Hidden details: Finding xeno: a penis tale; Some photos: Tiger

Tell me, o monks; what cannot be achieved through efforts. - Siddhartha Gautama


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