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I have an X4, which is a nice (but overpriced) device, but I wanted an ADS that I can actually wear under normal clothes and go outside my house without the world seeing something strange in my pants. I played with the ideas here for making an ADS from two strips of theraband and, while this works well, it takes a while to get in and out of which made it impractical for most purposes. I came up with a solution and thought others might benefit from this design.

The ADS uses a sorbothane (very soft rubber) lined, leather strap around the penis that is closed with velcro; a modified runner’s knee strap is used as, well, a knee strap; and the two are connected via a piece of theraband (or swimcap) and plastic buckles. The whole thing can be made in about 2 hours with very basic tools and for a reasonable price. I had most of the stuff laying around from other projects, so the whole thing cost less than $15; if you needed to purchase every part, then if might run you about $35.

Here’s the parts list (McMC# = McMaster-Carr Part #):
- Leather (1/8” x 2” x ~4.25” [this last dimension will be about 1/4” greater than your flaccid girth]; McMC# 8706K57)
- Sorbothane (aka Ultra-soft polyurethane; 1/8” x 2” x ~4.25” [again, the last dimension will vary based on flaccid girth]; McMC# 8514K111)
- Rivets (Wide Countersunk Head Solid Rivet W/washer, Copper, #12, 3/8” Length, 3/8” Head Diameter; McMC# 97537A289)
- Nylon Webbing (1” wide, about 1 foot total in length [will be cut into one piece about 8” long and another of about 4”])
- Plastic Buckle for 1” webbing (Squeeze release with no-sew feed through male and sew on female)
- Plastic Ladderlock for 1” webbing
- Mueller Jumper’s Knee Strap (about $6 at amazon)
- Theraband or swimcap material (about 4” wide and 6-8” long - use heaver type for more tension and thinner types for less tension)
- Thread
- General purpose glue (I recommend Duco Cement)

The first three items can be bought from McMaster-Carr; the next three items can be found at an outdoor store (e.g. REI, Campmor); I got the knee strap from amazon; and the other items you’ll probably have lying around.

The tools you’ll need include
- Scissors
- Hammer
- Drill
- Vicegrips (not 100% necessary, but makes life easier)
- Sewing Needle
- a soldering iron is also nice, but not necessary

Okay, let’s build…
Cut the piece of leather about a half inch longer than your flaccid girth about an inch behind your glans. Bend this piece of leather into a tube with the smooth side out, as if you were wrapping it around your penis. Holding this tube with the seam facing up (12 o’clock), mark the outside of the tube at 3 o’clock and 9 o’clock. Now, take the 8” piece of webbing and make four marks: one a 0.5” from each end and one 1.5” from each end. Now, place the female end of your plastic buckle over this piece of webbing. Apply glue to the last 1.75” of the webbing on both ends (the area where you made the four marks) and position the webbing on the leather over the 3 and 6 o’clock marks. Wrap all this up with masking tape, rubber bands, or twine. Let the glue dry. Some of this will probably not make sense as written, but should make sense if you look at the pictures of the finished ADS. When the glue has dried, unwrap everything, open up the leather tube and lay the leather flat on a piece of scrap wood (or something similar). Now drill a small hole (~1/8” diameter) in the center of the webbing at each of the four marks you made earlier on the webbing — drill through both the webbing and leather. If you have a soldering iron, push it into the webbing side of the hole to melt the webbing and prevent fraying around the hole; if you don’t have a soldering iron, then try using a hot nail held with pliars; if that won’t work for you, then you could try using a match. Insert a rivet into each of the four holes with the base of the rivet on the inside of the leather tube and the shaft sticking out of the webbing side. Place a washer over the shaft of the rivet. You can hammer these rivets out with a hammer, but I found that it is much easier to squeeze them out with vice grips and then hammer them smooth. Cut a piece of sorbothane the same dimensions as the leather and lay it on the inside of the leather tube. If the sorbothane is clean it will stick to the leather without glue (trust me, this stuff is sticky). I recommend not using glue so you can easily remove the sorbothane later for cleaning (run under warm water to clean). You’ve now finished the cock strap part of the ADS, and you’re almost done.

Take the knee strap and remove the plastic tube that’s sewn inside (just poke around and you’ll find the cloth that’s holding it in place; slice this cloth and pull out the tube). Toss this tube or save it for some later use (we won’t use it here). Now, take the 4” piece of webbing and loop it through the ladderlock so it doubles back on itself. Take this double thick 2” long piece of webbing that is now sticking out of the ladderlock and sew it to the middle of the knee strap. Finally, fold the theraband length-wise to get a piece that is about 6-8” long and <1” wide. Feed one end of this theraband through the ladderlock and the other end through the male side of the plastic buckle.

Put the knee strap around your leg, below the knee; wrap the cock strap around your cock and wrap a velcro strap around that to hold it in place; clip the two ends of the plastic buckle together and adjust the length of the theraband for the desired amount of tension and you’re almost good to go. Now, the leather tube might be a bit big for your girth; if so, just trim the leather and sorbothane to get the right fit. When everything feels about right, round off all the corners of the leather, and smooth off any sharp edges with a file, emory board or sandpaper.

That’s it — you’re done!

A note about wrapping: I’ve been playing with sorbothane in PE devices for a few months and really like this stuff: it’s soft, sticky and easy to clean. It sticks really well to dry skin but, when you start to sweat, it loses grip. The trick is to wrap first with gauze — just a one or two layer wrap of gauze and this stuff will hold really well.

If anything here isn’t clear, just let me know and I’ll try to clarify. If anyone has any suggestions for improvements, I’d love to hear them. Thanks and enjoy.

Also, could a moderator move this to the main forum please?

Attached Images
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Starting (May 2010): BPEL:6" EG: 4 7/8". Current (April 2011): BPEL: 6 3/4" EG: 5 1/4".

Short Term Goal: BPEL: 7" EG: 5.25" Long Term Goal: When my wife makes me stop or 8"x6" (whichever comes first)

Here are some more pics.

Attached Images
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Starting (May 2010): BPEL:6" EG: 4 7/8". Current (April 2011): BPEL: 6 3/4" EG: 5 1/4".

Short Term Goal: BPEL: 7" EG: 5.25" Long Term Goal: When my wife makes me stop or 8"x6" (whichever comes first)

A+ in the crafts department. Have you considered an elastic connection between the ADS and the knee strap?

Nicely done!!

Thanks. Leftcoast, the connection between the ADS and knee strap is made of theraband so it’s quite elastic. I considered using actual elastic (the type you get at a sewing store), but none of the elastic in my wife’s sewing box would have given enough tension. If you could find tough elastic, I bet it would work really well.

Starting (May 2010): BPEL:6" EG: 4 7/8". Current (April 2011): BPEL: 6 3/4" EG: 5 1/4".

Short Term Goal: BPEL: 7" EG: 5.25" Long Term Goal: When my wife makes me stop or 8"x6" (whichever comes first)

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