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3D Printing PE? Advice for designing gear.

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3D Printing PE? Advice for designing gear.

Hey Guys,

I’ve known about PE for a while now and have done it off and on over the past few years. I’ve always just done the usual jelq, stretching and other hand exercises but I’ve always been interested in getting an extender or some other gear. However, one big deterrent for me is the price tag.

Now the interesting part, I recently got my hands on a 3D printer and have learned how to design and have had a lot of success making a few of my own files. For example, I have already designed and printed the clamp I use for clamping. I’m really interested in designing and printing my own extender because I know I could do it for substantially less than the $200 price tag associated with these devices and make something pretty good for myself. I mean, at the end of the day, all they do is stretch; it seems fairly straight forward to design.

But, I’m definitely not a PE or Extender Guru, so my question is, what are some important features or abilities this thing needs to have? What should an extender do? Any capabilities I should consider adding? Best place for the base to fit? Where are they usually the most uncomfortable? Really, any useful information would be great..

I’m sure I can find out a lot of these questions through trial and error like I did my clamp, but with each print taking a couple hours, and then testing, and then tweaking, it would be great to get some guidance on the front end from people who know. Especially because I don’t have a baseline for comparing my test! :-P

Also, if you can think of anything other useful gear I could design I’d love to hear about it.

Thanks,
Sindustry

Comfort issues are at the base and where it attacks to the glans. The latter is mostly related to the kind of attachment you want, the former is due to a too small circumference of the base for some, a too thin base (so it pushes on a small area of the pubis causing discomfort) and on the underside, where it pushes on the urethra and touches the balls. I wonder if the correct base shape could be an upside U.

I like the idea, I was hesitant to put a O shaped base behind the balls because I’m personally very sensitive there and it just seems very uncomfortable. Giving both bases a try (by making them interchangeable) would be pretty straightforward though.

As far as attaching it to the glans, I’m going to want some material between the plastic and my cock. Any suggestions?

(Edited for punctuation)

You might want to look at this thread:

3D printing and PE devices?

There are no plans in it to print yet but you can see pics of a concept model.


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Thanks for that link! It looks like that thread fizzled out a bit which is a real shame because this technology seems perfectly suited for this function. Easily modifiable, light weight yet strong, low volume is possible for unique designs.

I’ve attached an image of my first model using the Ubase that was suggested. I’m excited to give this a try once the girlfriend goes to work tonight!

(I’ve tried to attach an image of my design; but, I’m not sure it’ll work.)

Some notes:

The base is designed with Ushape suggested with a 40 mm diameter and a slight bevel on the inside bottom to prevent sharp corners near the penis base.

The glans clamp is based on my clamp for the base, it has a slight groove on both sides for better vertical (as pictured) holding. The top clamp has a base diameter of 30 mm but because I use a slightly larger diameter circle for the inner clamp part, it’s minimum size is approximately 30mm x 20mm oval and max size is approximately 30mm x 45mm

Instead of screws I use notches because they are easier for me to design and print. These notches make it vertically adjustable in 4 mm increments but this could easily be halved by another set of bars with vertical notches or a redesigned pole with notches on both sides. Additionally, I could pick up some threaded rods from the hardware store, cut them to size and make a bolt well and use threaded rods for extremely minute adjustments, but there seems to be marginal benefit to that.

My Plan: attach the glans clamp with some buffer cloth, insert the poles into the base, stretch the penis to the best fit notch and lock it in.

Again, this is my first time using/designing an extender so any tips would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Sindustry

Attached Images
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Last edited by memento : 08-10-2013 at .

I used it for about an hour a couple days ago. Not so bad! I’ve got some more changes in the works, but this is definitely doable. I’m looking at learning OpenScad to make the design parametric and easily customizable on a user to user basis.

Are you happy with the strength of the design? It’s the kind of think that you wouldn’t want to snap.


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Nice. If I had a 3d printer I would likely never sleep. I have done a lot of 3d modelling, but it is always stayed virtual.

Like memento asked, is the end result quite solid? I am not up on how it actually “prints” but I imagine it fuses beads or a stream of material together so are there many flaws that you have noticed where it hasn’t fused properly?

Which 3d printer are you using?


Keep an open mind and a closed wallet... unless it\'s open to making a donation!

Memento - 3D prints are quite strong, especially horizontally. My only small vertical part is where the rods connect to the upper glans but no issues so far.

Cantlook - You should definitely get one. All said and done my little Prusa Mendel i2 cost around $600. I had no experience with electrics/soldering/anything before I undertook the project and it’s been very rewarding. You’re right about a stream of material, mine extrudes a .35 mm stream that gets laid down according to a computer generated path layer by layer. I had very bad quality issues while I was trying to calibrate my printer; however, now normal quality issues include simple after print clean-up. ABS is hard enough to sand and using acetone can be used to give a glossy finish.

You can always try out your designs at sculpteo, shapeways, or I.materialise and they will even print in metals. However, these can be pretty pricey.

Originally Posted by Sindustry
Memento - 3D prints are quite strong, especially horizontally. My only small vertical part is where the rods connect to the upper glans but no issues so far.

Cantlook - You should definitely get one. All said and done my little Prusa Mendel i2 cost around $600. I had no experience with electrics/soldering/anything before I undertook the project and it’s been very rewarding. You’re right about a stream of material, mine extrudes a .35 mm stream that gets laid down according to a computer generated path layer by layer. I had very bad quality issues while I was trying to calibrate my printer; however, now normal quality issues include simple after print clean-up. ABS is hard enough to sand and using acetone can be used to give a glossy finish.

You can always try out your designs at sculpteo, shapeways, or I.materialise and they will even print in metals. However, these can be pretty pricey.


It’s on my list. They don’t seem terribly precise yet though, if you had a model of a threaded bolt and a nut and you printed them separately, would they actually fit together together? I’m sure the more you pay the more precise you can get, $600 is a great deal though.

Are you able to upload some images (as close up as you can get clearly) of the printed device when you get a chance?

Thanks! :)


Keep an open mind and a closed wallet... unless it\'s open to making a donation!

You should check out MAKE:Ultimate guide to 3D Printing. Their tests of like 20 machines had some pretty interesting results on very differently priced builds. (All the way to $400 assembled!)

I’ve never tried bolts, so I looked it up and found http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:64410 which looks fairly good to me. However, using a metal threaded rod/captive bolt is fairly easy and cheap. The main reason I haven’t done this is that I’ve done a quick patent search. I’m not sure how patents work, but I went under the assumption that if the “Claims” part didn’t describe my device, I was OK. The things I believe made my device unique are:

No silicone
No elastic bands
No metal rods
Ushaped base instead of an O shaped base

I tried to attached a couple images without any clean-up of my latest build, including a weigh-in and a strength test. The strength test is obviously a very rough guide, just giving you guys an example. The biggest weakness was the front to back motion which I believe I can solve with one more front rod or wider side rods.

At 1.1 oz I have it supporting roughly 12 lbs.

I had to fight the file size so hopefully they worked out OK.

Again, I haven’t done any clean-up on these pieces and all the stringy stuff is pretty normal and breaks off when sanded or even scratched.

Attached Images
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PrintAssembled5lbV.2.jpg
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PrintAssembled12.5lbV.2.jpg
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PrintCloseUpV.2.jpg
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That’s pretty brilliant. I have done some 3d printing for cosplay jewelery and some custom action figures, but I would never have thought of something like this!

If you haven’t already, you should take some pics with it on, I’m curious to see exact how it works and fits.

How flexible is the material you are using (I always use shapeways so I’m only familiar with a few of their amaterials) and is this design easy to hide under normal clothing?

Good luck in your experiments, I’ll definitely be watching this thread!


Starting Stats: 5.5 BPEL/5.0 EG (Jan 08)

Current Stats: 6.0 BPEL/5.25EG (Mar 09)

Starting Pics: The Leap of Faith: Here are my starters.

Hey Aiynsedai,

Thanks for the kind words and I’m glad your interested! The material I use is ABS, the same plastic used in legos. When printed, it has a little bend in it, but can snap if that’s pushed too much.

As far as wearing it under clothes, I really didn’t think about that when I was designing it. For me it was more of an hour at a time bath/shower type of deal. I’ll get to work on a more portable design and see if I can come up with something.

As far as pictures, I’d love to demonstrate this being used, but I’m very hesitant to put images of myself online. I’ve seen too many Miss Americans fall because of their shenanigans and don’t want to join their ranks :-P

Can you make clear plastic molds with your 3D printer? Because I would love to help you with some pump designs. I’d even be willing to pay for the materials and shipping.


Bpel: 8", Bpeg: 6", Mbeg: 5.75", Meg: 5.5", Aheg: 5.25", Heg: 4.5" - 11/18/11

Bpel: 8", Bpeg: 6", Mbeg: 5.875", Meg: 5.63", Aheg: 5.38", Heg: 4.75" - 5/18/12

Bpel:+1/4", Bpeg:6", Mbeg: 5.875", Meg:+1/16", Aheg: +1/16", Heg: +1/16" - 6/18/12

Originally Posted by Sindustry

You should check out MAKE:Ultimate guide to 3D Printing. Their tests of like 20 machines had some pretty interesting results on very differently priced builds. (All the way to $400 assembled!)

Thanks! :)


Keep an open mind and a closed wallet... unless it\'s open to making a donation!

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