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Silicone Sleeves - Make your own

Maybe it would be a better idea for the first few people on the list to be members who have more posts and are more “part” of Thunder’s community.

(Not trying to pimp myself here at all, I don’t vac hang :) )

I thought about that Klayton, similar to Ebay sellers saying you must have x amount of feedback to bid, but decided against it. My thinking was that members with more posts would be more concerned about their forum reputations and would do what they had agreed to, but ultimately didn’t want to exclude anyone. I’d hope that a participating member would see the names on the list after him and realize he’d be stealing from them. This is a community, I hope we all act like one. :)

So far 3 takers, listed in order: John Mac, pejunkyard, and chainz8.

TPS: Looks like we’ve been doing the same experimenting with the Smooth-On stuff. I have about 6 different mixes that I’ve been working with - all different durometers (softness) and tensile strengths. I worked the mold using two pcs of PVC rather than the galvanized pipe. After thinking about this, I think the pipe idea is better. I was also screwing around with a mold release agent and I having low success with clean removal of the cured sleeve. Your idea with a split outer mold makes absolute sense - why didn’t I think if that!! That eliminates the need for a mold release agent.

I’m off to HD tomorrow to pick up some pipe and more PVC, and will give it a go with the variety of silicone compounds I have here. The Eco-Flex 30 is good stuff, BTW.

I spent about $200 on a variety of Smooth-on compounds. If I can help by contributing some silicone to the interested PE brotherhood and your “chain letter” (Great idea!) , let me know.

You are great TPS.

If I participate the list, will someone in front of me send it to my country? :-k

Do you think these molds/sleeves would work in as applied in the “Static Stretching” thread?

kook


Keep working, keep learning

KEEP GROWING!!!!

Originally Posted by Howard
TPS: Looks like we’ve been doing the same experimenting with the Smooth-On stuff. I have about 6 different mixes that I’ve been working with - all different durometers (softness) and tensile strengths. I worked the mold using two pcs of PVC rather than the galvanized pipe. After thinking about this, I think the pipe idea is better. I was also screwing around with a mold release agent and I having low success with clean removal of the cured sleeve. Your idea with a split outer mold makes absolute sense - why didn’t I think if that!! That eliminates the need for a mold release agent.

I’m off to HD tomorrow to pick up some pipe and more PVC, and will give it a go with the variety of silicone compounds I have here. The Eco-Flex 30 is good stuff, BTW.

I spent about $200 on a variety of Smooth-on compounds. If I can help by contributing some silicone to the interested PE brotherhood and your “chain letter” (Great idea!) , let me know.


A kindred silicone spirit! A mold release that works pretty well that you may already have around the house is 1 part liquid dishwashing detergent to 2 parts isopropyl alcohol. Though with the smooth pipe material, with the two part mold you should have little difficulty in removal. When I tried Smooth-on’s skin tight product though, it was still a challenge to seperate the pieces, though I succeeded.

I have the Eco-flex 30 as well as several others. The 30 was too stiff for the thickeness of these sleeves, and I ended up with what I’ve pictured. My latest test in process is with their Dragon Skin product and it seems to be a bit stronger than the Eco-flex 0030, which it should be. Unfortunately it’s a little stiff at this thickness as well as a bit too thick for pouring so it needs the silicone thinner. This creates a more challenging mixing process and would require a gram scale which I doubt most people have.

An important feature you’ll find of this incredibly high tech molding technique is that some silicone seeps under the outer half of the mold and creates a nice, thick lip that is more tear resistant. Don’t press the outer half all the way into the end cap and you can control how much lip you get. Put some newspaper or something under your mold as you’ll be getting some silicone ooze. ;)

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I’m being picky here, but if we can agree that static stretch (SPS-style) means that the length is fixed (and when the tissue relaxes, the tension decreases, see mbuc’s treads) then one needs a base+threaded bolts (or similar) to make sure that the length is fixed.

I have also used my vacExtender head around the waist, and even though the length is pretty fixed, it isn’t a static stretch in the SPS-sense, since the bungee around the waist is (a) a bungee and (b) cuts into my flesh. I don’t think one can even call a static cord a static stretch around the waist because of (b).

If I understand gerry’s original musings right, he speculates that a certain, rather small tension, applied 24/7 will promote growth - which may or may not be dependent on the fixed length while this rather gentle stretch is taking place.

Gerry, did I understand you right? And by the way, could you go into detail concerning your theory as to why this would be the case?


regards, mgus

Taped onto the dashboard of a car at a junkyard, I once found the following: "Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement." The car was crashed.

Primary goal: To have an EQ above average (i.e. streetsmart, compassionate about life and happy) Secondary goal: to make an anagram of my signature denoting how I feel about my gains

A, I’m not using a bungee on mine. B, the one inch wide nylon tie down strap I am using doesn’t cut into the flesh. C, (I know, I just through that in there ;) ) the D-rings I am using make for simple, instant adjustments in tension if desired. ABCD, that’s about as technical as I get. I’ll leave the theoretical stuff rest for you much more intelligent people. However, I don’t think this thread is the place for that discussion, I thought it was already going in Gerry’s thread. I’m not even sure he’s even seen this one.

Oops, I crisscrossed threads in my mind.

(b) not so sure about that anyway, being the sceptic I am. The people behind SPS talk about fixtures, orthopedic such, as in rigid braces that fix your limbs in the desired stretching position and then ratcheting up the tension in a fixed position. Kind of like wire on braces, as opposed to rubber bands on braces. If the exact length is needed - any give and you loose length (= lesser tension) as well as the lessening tension from the tissues stretching/relaxing. That’s why I figure that the more exact comparison would be turnbuckle / treaded rod.

Still, I’m not so sure that this matters if one uses it 24/7, or for many hours at least. SPS claims better results in shorter sets, meaning one would ratch it up to as far as one could go and then leave it there for a couple of ½-1 hr sets a day.

Back on topic, sorry.


regards, mgus

Taped onto the dashboard of a car at a junkyard, I once found the following: "Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement." The car was crashed.

Primary goal: To have an EQ above average (i.e. streetsmart, compassionate about life and happy) Secondary goal: to make an anagram of my signature denoting how I feel about my gains

Here are a few more ideas people can try when playing with these materials.

• On the left, I’ve placed the mesh material, like the old chinese finger trap, in the casting. This has some issues to work out, but I have tired of it and what I’ve already detailed in the above instructions works well. There’s a possible hanger in there somewhere.
• In the center is a two part casting. A more rigid silicone product at the top (pink), and the soft stuff below. This I really like but requires more materials and practice to pour. I’ve tried to simplify this project with both materials and methods so anyone can make these at home. There are a ton of options out there you all can play with, if you have a mind to. Putting the more rigid material in the middle and the softer stuff on the ends has the same effect as the cast piece on the far right and makes use a snap as you can roll up both ends.
• On the right, I’ve cast in strips of a more rigid material in an open ended sleeve. This could be worn without attaching anything as a way to keep the penis in a more extended state. If anyone plays with this, make sure the materials are compatible.

Another possibility that provides a little more comfort but sacrifices stealthiness is to insert a standard 1” pvc slip cap (same as is used for the mold) in the end of the tube. This spreads the pressure out across a larger area of the glans.

I would like to sign up for and be apart of the list. Thanks!

TPS, instead of shipping mold (which I pressume is heavy-upping the cost of shipping), why not make molds for members and we pay you? Maybe even trade you goodies for premade sleeves. Or is my suggestion borderline a business thing and is discouraged in the forums?

Originally Posted by minime123
TPS, instead of shipping mold (which I pressume is heavy-upping the cost of shipping), why not make molds for members and we pay you? Maybe even trade you goodies for premade sleeves. Or is my suggestion borderline a business thing and is discouraged in the forums?


minime, the molds aren’t that heavy so don’t increase the mailing expense. It’s just a couple pieces of pvc and a bolt. The molds are fairly simple to make, and I encourage people to try doing the project themselves. It would actually be easier if I just made the sleeves rather than the molds, and sold those, but that’s not what this project is about. In my playing around with this project, I ended up with a bunch of extra silicone so I’m sharing it. Trade goodies? I’m afraid to ask. :chuckle: No goodies necessary, you’re on the list.

The kit will go out tomorrow. I’ve cast all the test sleeves I care to at this time. Thanks all. :)

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